When to Go

The seasons in Argentina are the reverse of those in the Northern Hemisphere. Buenos Aires is ideal in fall (Mar-May) and spring (Sept-Nov). The months of October and November in Buenos Aires, when the jacaranda trees have begun to bloom, are a particularly beautiful time to visit. December visitors will still find pleasant weather for the most part. What you won't find in Buenos Aires in December, in spite of its being overwhelmingly Catholic, are over-the-top Christmas decorations and ritual. January and February can be terribly hot, with humid temperatures soaring to 100°F (38°C). Much of the city is also abandoned at that time by locals who flock to beach resorts in Mar del Plata or Uruguay. January is a time when many tourists do visit, resulting in overbooked hotels, yet many restaurants and sites have limited hours during this time period, often closing entirely from January 1 to January 15. You should call ahead to make sure a place is open. While you won't find snow in winter (June-Aug) in Buenos Aires, the weather can be overcast, chilly, and wet, reminiscent of London.

Climate -- Except for a small tropical area in northern Argentina, the country lies in the temperate zone, characterized by cool, dry weather in the south, and warmer, humid air in the center. Accordingly, January and February are quite hot -- often in the high 90s to more than 100°F (35°C-40°C) -- while winter (approximately July-Oct) can be chilly.

Holidays -- Public holidays are January 1 (New Year's Day), Good Friday, May 1 (Labor Day), May 25 (First Argentine Government), June 10 (National Sovereignty Day), June 20 (Flag Day), July 9 (Independence Day), August 17 (Anniversary of the Death of General San Martín), October 12 (Día de la Raza), December 8 (Immaculate Conception Day), and December 25 (Christmas). Most tourist businesses and restaurants, however, will remain open during all but Christmas and New Year's.

Festivals & Special Events -- A few holidays and festivals are worth planning a trip around. The best place to get information for these events is through your local Argentine tourism office. The Buenos Aires Tourist Office also provides information on all these events through their website, www.bue.gov.ar, or by calling tel. 11/4313-0187.

The Buenos Aires version of Carnaval or Mardi Gras is called Fiesta de las Murgas, and though not as colorful as that in Rio de Janeiro, it is celebrated every weekend in February. Various neighborhoods have costumed street band competitions full of loud music and dancing. Visit www.solomurgas.com for more information.

Chinese Lunar New Year is celebrated generally the first Sunday of the month of February, depending on the actual date of the holiday. Belgrano's Chinatown is small but the dragon-blessing parade is a fun, intimate event kids and adults are certain to enjoy.

The Feria del Libro (Book Festival) is celebrated from the end of April until the beginning of May. This is one of the world's largest book festivals. Visit www.el-libro.com.ar for dates and the event schedule.

Theater lovers should try to visit during the Festival Internacional de Buenos Aires, a 2-week event of international theater programs, usually held in September. Visit www.festivaldeteatroba.com.ar or call tel. 11/4374-2829 for more information.

The World Tango Festival is celebrated in early to mid-October, with various events, many concentrated in the tango neighborhood of San Telmo. Visit www.worldtangofestival.com.ar for more information and exact dates.

The world's biggest polo event, the Argentine Open Polo Championships, is held at the polo grounds in Palermo, near the Las Cañitas neighborhood, in late November and early December, attracting moneyed crowds from around the world who get to mingle with visiting British royalty. Call the Argentine Polo Association (tel. 11/4343-0972) for more details.

The National Gay Pride parade is held in November, and can switch at the last minute from the first Saturday to the third Saturday of the month, so check Comunidad Homosexual de Argentina's website at www.cha.org.ar for updated information.

Though Argentina has little in the way of Christmas ritual, Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve (Noche Buena) at the Metropolitan Cathedral is a beautiful spectacle. It is usually held at 10pm on December 24. In Argentina, December 24 is a more important day than December 25, and family dinners are held on Christmas Eve rather than on Christmas itself.