Tango

Tango Show Palaces

With tango as the main draw, Buenos Aires says, "Let me entertain you." Numerous show palaces, from the simple Cafe Tortoni to the over-the-top, special-effects-laden Se?or Tango, compete for your tourist dollar. All of the shows are excellent, and, surprisingly, each is very unique, proving that tango can mean many things to many people, the performers themselves most of all. Here I've listed some of the top shows, but new ones seem to open up almost every other week. Many of the show palaces include dinner, or you can arrive just in time for the show only. Usually the price differential is minimal for seeing only the show, making it worth coming early for dinner. Seeing a variety of tango palaces is important, since each show has its own style. Smaller spaces lead to a greater intimacy and more interaction between the dancers and the audience. Sometimes the dancers even grab a few people, so watch out if you're close to the stage! Some of these shows, such as Se?or Tango and El Viejo Almacen, offer bus services that pick you up at your hotel. Book directly, or ask your hotel concierge for help and bus transfer times, which can be up to an hour before the event.

Tango: Lessons in the Dance of Seduction & Despair

It seems impossible to imagine Argentina without thinking of tango, its greatest export to the world. Tango originated with a guitar and violin toward the end of the 19th century and was first danced by working-class men in La Boca, San Telmo, and the port area. Combining African rhythms with the habanera and candombe, it was not the sophisticated dance you know today -- rather, the tango originated in brothels, known locally as quilombos. At that time the dance was considered too obscene for women, and as they waited their turn, men would dance it with each other in the brothel lounges.

Increasing waves of immigrants added Italian elements to the tango and helped the dance make its way to Europe, where it was internationalized in Paris. With a sense of European approval, Argentine middle and upper classes began to accept the newly refined dance as part of their cultural identity, and the form blossomed under the extraordinary voice of Carlos Gardel, who brought tango to Broadway and Hollywood, and is nothing short of legendary among Argentines. Astor Piazzolla further internationalized the tango, elevating it to a more complex form incorporating classical elements.

Tango music can range from two musicians to a complete orchestra, but a piano and bandoneon -- an instrument akin to an accordion -- are usually included. If there is a singer, the lyrics might come from one of Argentina's great poets, such as Jorge Luis Borges, Homero Manzi, or Horacio Ferrer. Themes focus on a downtrodden life or a woman's betrayal, making it akin to American jazz and blues, which developed at the same time. The dance itself is improvised rather than standardized, although it consists of a series of long walks and intertwined movements, usually in eight-step. In the tango, the man and woman glide across the floor as an exquisitely orchestrated duo with early flirtatious movements giving way to dramatic leads and heartfelt turns, with the man always leading the way. These movements, such as the kicks that simulate knife movements, or the sliding, shuffled feet that mimic the walk of a gangster silently walking up to murder someone, belie its rough roots when it was the favored dance of La Boca gangsters in spite of its intense beauty as performed nowadays.

Learning to dance the tango is an excellent way for a visitor to get a sense of what makes the music -- and the dance -- so alluring. Entering a tango salon -- called a salon de baile or milonga -- can be intimidating for the novice. The style of tango danced in salons is more subdued than "show tango." Most respectable dancers would not show up before midnight, giving you the perfect opportunity to sneak in for a group lesson, offered at most of the salons starting around 7 to 9pm. They usually cost between US$1 and US$3 (50p-#1.60) for an hour; you can request private instruction for between US$10 and US$20 (#5.30-#11) per hour, depending on the instructor. In summer, the city of Buenos Aires promotes tango by offering free classes in many locations. Visit the nearest tourist information center for updated information. Before you head to Argentina, free tango lessons are also provided by select Argentine consulates in the United States.

For additional advice on places to dance and learn tango, get a copy of B.A. Tango or El Tangauta, the city's dedicated tango magazines. Ongoing evening lessons are also offered at the Academia Nacional de Tango, located above Cafe Tortoni at Av. de Mayo 833 (tel. 11/4345-6968), which is an institute rather than a tango salon.

Milongas (Tango Salons & Dance Halls)

While the show palaces and their dance shows are wonderful must-sees, there is nothing like the amazing lure of the milonga (tango salon) on a trip to Buenos Aires. As with the show palaces, there are more now than ever before. Rather than destroy tango, the peso crisis has created a greater awareness of all things traditionally Argentine and the need to turn inwards and be self-reflective. In the same way that the ancestors of today's Porte?os turned to tango more than 100 years ago to alleviate their pain, isolation, and worries with a night of dancing their melancholy away, so too did modern Porte?os, creating an unprecedented boom in rapidly opening milongas. This, coupled with the increase in tourism and expats from Europe and North America who have decided to move here and tango their lives away, means that there are more choices for dancing than ever before. This scene is not without its rules and obstacles, however, especially in terms of how to act with dancers of the opposite sex. Be sure to read "Some Tango Rules" (below) to get some tips on milonga behavior for foreigners before heading out. There's usually about a US$2 (#1.05) entry fee to get into a milonga.

You should also pick up the Tango Map, which has a comprehensive guide to milongas in all regions of the city, arranged by day and time. Find it at the tourism kiosks, the various tango-associated venues listed in this book, and also in select locations in San Telmo. Be aware that the same location may have different events by different names, so keeping track of the address of the venue is important. Also, double-check the listings in B.A. Tango, El Tangauta and La Milonga, the city's main tango magazines. Also look for Punto Tango, a pocket-size guide with similar information. The numbers that are listed in this section and within the magazines or maps are not necessarily those of the venues, but may be the numbers of the various dance organizations that hold events within the specific dance venue on any given night.

Some Tango Rules

Certainly the seductive sound of the tango is one of the reasons you came to Buenos Aires in the first place. Maybe you just want to see some people perform those fancy kicks and moves onstage. Maybe you'd like to learn some of the steps yourself. Or maybe you're nearly an expert and want your own turn on some of the wooden dance floors where Buenos Aires's best have danced for decades. Whatever your objectives or level of interest, you can do all or any of those options with the choices I have laid out for you in this section.

The only places most tourists see tango in Buenos Aires are in the big, and expensive, show palace-restaurants, which feature dancers onstage as tourists eat meals with steak as the centerpiece. While aimed at tourists, the quality of each of these shows is superb, and even the most jaded Porte?o cannot help but be impressed by what is onstage. In spite of the quantity of these stage spectaculars, each is also different in its own right. Some concentrate on the dance's history, others the intimacy with the audience; some throw in other dance forms, especially folkloric, or seem to forget tango all together.

However, I think every tourist should also venture out and see more than just those shows if time permits. Head to a milonga, a place where the dance is done by those who know it well (usually following a strict protocol of interactions between the sexes). A key concept in these places refers to the milonga eyes -- perhaps you've heard fairy tales about two sets of eyes meeting across the room and then finding their way to each other on the dance floor. In some milongas, men and women sit on different sides of the room, couples only blending together in certain spots. Men and women will try to catch each other's eyes this way, flirting across the smoke-filled distance, adding nods, smiles, and sometimes hand movements for increased effect. The man finally approaches the woman, offering to dance. Often, there is not even a word between the two at this stage until they take the floor.

This ritual means that tourists need to be aware of a few things. Firstly, never, ever block anyone's view, especially a woman who is sitting by herself. Be aware of divisions between the sexes in seating (which might be enforced by the management anyway for newcomers), and follow the rules. As a foreigner, some very strict places might tell you they simply have no seats; you can overcome this obstacle by saying you are looking for a friend who arrived earlier. Avoid eye contact with members of the opposite sex if you have no idea what you're doing. You might be inviting a dance when all you want to do is watch, confusing some people who are completely absorbed in the rules of the game.

If a woman wants to dance with new men in order to practice the tango, she should not be seen entering the salon with a male friend, because most of the other men will assume she is already taken. If couples want to practice dancing with new people, they should enter the room separately. If you are coming in a group, divide yourselves up by sex for the same reason. Each milonga, however, maintains its own grip on these rules -- some very strict, others abiding only by some. It's also best not to go to these places in large groups, and rather with a few people at a time or as a couple. The sudden entrance of a large group of noisy curious foreigners who don't know the place can instantly change the overall atmosphere. And importantly, show respect to where you are in terms of how you appear. While you needn't dress to the nines, a baseball cap and sneakers will ruin the atmosphere of the place (if they even let you in).

Find a copy of the Tango Map, which lists almost all of the city's milongas, as well as specific special events held each night. It is, incidentally, among the best maps, period, of Buenos Aires, and it even includes neighborhoods generally off the beaten tourist path.

Tango Tours

If you think you might want to try your hand at the authentic milongas, it would help to take some lessons beforehand or take a tour with a professional. There are literally hundreds of tours for people interested in tango here in Buenos Aires, the city where it all began. Here are just a few, and all of these people and groups also offer lessons. Also see below where I list even more instructors.

Tango Teachers

All of the tango tour groups offer tango lessons, either in a group or individually. Alternatively, you can try the following list of professional tango teachers below as well. More listings for teachers are available in the B.A. Tango, Tangauta, and La Milonga magazines.

• Julieta Lotti (tel. 11/4774-5654; julietalotti@hotmail.com) has taught and danced tango for years. She is a member of the Las Fulanas troupe of dance professionals. She does not speak much English, however.

• Maite Lujan (tel. 15/5992-5041; maritelujan@yahoo.com) has taught tango for years and speaks English and Portuguese. She has also advised various tango clubs catering to tourists.

• Marie Soler (tel. 15/5411-7208; tangomariemar@hotmail.com) is a young woman who knows the tango scene well. She speaks English and often enters various competitions and shows in the La Viruta milonga.

• Pedro Sanchez (tel. 11/4923-2774; pedromilonguero@yahoo.com.ar) has been dancing tango for over 50 years, and many women I know swear by his instruction methods. He speaks little English, but always makes himself understood. He will give private lessons, and also offers Monday evening sessions for small groups, which might be a good way to get to know him and see his techniques.

• Patricia Herrera (Yuyu) (tel. 11/4805-1457; yuyuherrer_tango@yahoo.com.ar). An excellent and patient teacher, Patricia, who goes by the nickname Yuyu, teaches from her home in Recoleta or will visit people at their home or hotel.