Café Tortoni

Frommer's Review

You cannot come to Buenos Aires and not visit this important Porteño institution. I mentioned this cafe in the dining chapter, but at the risk of being repetitive, it is a must-see no matter if you plan to dine there or not. This historic cafe has served as the artistic and intellectual heart of Buenos Aires since 1858, with guests such as Jorge Luis Borges, Julio de Caro, Cátulo Castillo, and José Gobello. Wonderfully appointed in woods, stained glass, yellowing marble, and bronzes, the place tells more about its history by simply existing than any of the photos on its walls. This is the perfect place for a coffee or a small snack when wandering along Avenida de Mayo. Twice-nightly tango shows in a cramped side gallery, where the performers often walk through the crowd, are worth making time for. What makes the Tortoni all the more special is that locals and tourists seem to exist side-by-side here, one never overwhelming the other. Do not, however, expect great service: Sometimes only jumping up and down will get the staff's attention, even when they are just a few feet from you. I've recently found that late at night when the cafe is overwhelmed with visitors, they no longer allow tourists to come in for a quick peek. If that happens, make a plan to come back during the day time when it is less busy.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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