Frommer's Review
Perhaps the most photographed building in Buenos Aires, the Casa Rosada is the main presence on the Plaza de Mayo. The Argentine president does not live here, contrary to what many tourists think, but he does work here. (He lives in the suburbs in a mansion in Los Olivos, north of the city.) It is from a balcony of the north wing of this building that Eva Perón addressed adoring crowds of Argentine workers. Hoping for some star-quality glamour for his term of office, former President Carlos Ménem allowed Madonna to actually use it for the 1996 movie, to the shock of many Porteños. Most Argentines, however, associate the balcony with the announcement of military dictator Leopoldo Galtieri's ill-fated declaration of war in 1982 against the United Kingdom over the Falkland Islands, known here as the Islas Malvinas. Two theories explain why in such a supposedly machismo country the president works in a pink building. One is political -- two warring parties, one represented by the color red, the other by white, created a truce by painting the building a color combining both shades. The other, rather revolting theory is more practical and says that in days past, the building was painted with cow blood that then dried in the sun to a deep pink color.
You can watch the changing of the guard in front of the palace every hour on the hour. To the side of the palace, at the subte (subway) entrance, you'll find the Presidential Museum, with information on the history of the building and items owned by various presidents over the centuries. Portions of the museum extend underground into basements of no-longer-existing buildings. Make sure to step outside to look at excavations on the customs house and port area, which existed along the Río de la Plata at this point until landfill projects pushed the shore farther east. You should also ask about the periodic tours of the Casa Rosada itself. These tours are free but must be reserved ahead of time by asking about the schedule of the tours and signing up for them at the museum's front desk. If you're going on one, bring identification and expect to have personal items X-rayed to help ensure the security of the president. The tour will take you through ornate chambers, many overseen by marble busts of past presidents. You won't, however, be allowed to visit the famous balcony, no matter how much you cry for Argentina. This building is currently undergoing a major renovation, so call ahead for more information.
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