Café Tortoni

Frommer's Review

You cannot come to Buenos Aires and not visit this important Porteño institution. This historic cafe has served as the artistic and intellectual capital of Buenos Aires since 1858, with guests such as Jorge Luis Borges, Julio de Caro, Cátulo Castillo, and José Gobello. Its current location was opened in the 1890s when Avenida de Mayo was created as the main thoroughfare of a rich and powerful emerging Buenos Aires. Wonderfully appointed in woods, stained glass, yellowing marble, and bronzes, the place tells more about its history by simply existing than any of the photos hanging on its walls. This is the perfect place for a coffee or a small snack when wandering along Avenida de Mayo. Twice-nightly tango shows in a cramped side gallery, where performers often walk through the crowd, are worth taking the time for. The tight space where shows are held means you'll get to know the patron next to you almost too well. What makes the Tortoni all the more special is that locals and tourists seem to exist side by side. Do not, however, expect great service: Sometimes only jumping up and down will get the staff's attention, even when they are a few feet from you. It's a beautiful place, but service and treating people well has never been the Tortoni's forte.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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