Attractions

The ruined medieval castle Alcázar (no phone; free admission; daily 9am-1pm and 4-8pm) in the town center was declared a national monument in 1931. The well-preserved ramparts enclose the former courtyard where, amazingly, summer bullfights are now held. Early in the new year, notwithstanding the mountain cold, locals reenact biblical scenes in living tableaux, known here as the Belén viviente.

Within the castle grounds is the Gothic Santa María del Castillo, noted for its 17th-century sepulchers and Mudéjar tower. Unusually, the interior also features Bulgarian icons created by an artist living close by.

Las Murallas, the walls that surround the city, still intact from the times of the Arabic occupation, date from the 11th century. The tiny Paseo de la Concha (Shell Promenade) running alongside their eastern edge, beside the river, is a particularly peaceful and attractive spot.