By Car -- This is one destination where it is worth getting off the beaten track, and this means -- given that most signposts are written in Cyrillic -- hiring a car and driver. If you have the time to get lost, there are numerous car-rental companies to choose from (and presently all you'll need is your national driver's license) -- to get the best deal, surf around and compare the usual big-name global brands with the highly reputable www.avtorent.com (10-group cars from 14€-52€/$18-$66, including unlimited mileage and insurance), www.md-rent.com, and www.vickyrent.com. The speed limit in the country is 50 to 60kmph (31-37 mph) in populated areas, 80kmph (50 mph) on minor roads, and 120kmph (74 mph) on highways; note that you'll need to display a 5€ ($6.50) per week vignette/decal (from OMV or Shell gas stations).
To rent a car with a driver, contact Rent-Cars-With-Driver (tel. 888-68-4848; http://rentacarsdriver.dir.bg) or Surprise Tours, a one-man company run by the amiable and charming Svetlio (tel. 088/7485174; svelte@mail.bg). Svetlio charges 70€ ($89) per day and 8€ ($10) per 100km (62 miles) to drive you anywhere in his (non-air-conditioned) Passat; while not a qualified guide he is knowledgeable and he is at your beck and call 24 hours. Svetlio will arrange all your accommodations bookings (you can either just specify a budget limitation, or tell him exactly what you want based on the recommendations below). If you want an air-conditioned or 4x4 vehicle, this is hired for an additional fee. Day trips to Rila, Koprovishtitsa, Melnik, Plovdiv, and Veliko Tarnovo cost 80€ to 85€ ($102-$108). A tip is welcome (and usually earned), but not expected.
By Bus -- This is the best way to get around if you have decided against hiring a car, as the proliferation of private companies like ETAP and Grup (www.etapgroup.com) and Biomet (www.biomet-bg.com) has meant that buses are smart, clean, reliable, and user-friendly. This is particularly true if you are traveling and making all your bookings from Sofia. The recently renovated Central bus station (http://tis.centralnaavtogara.bg) has an information desk staffed by helpful English-speakers, and also boasts an easy-to-use, self-help computer system, providing timetables and exact prices charged. There are regular buses (almost hourly) to Plovdiv, Varna, and Veliko Tarnovo; getting to smaller towns like Bansko and Koprivshtitsa will require advance planning.
By Train -- Train travel is not recommended at present: Not only is infrastructure old, leading to potential delays, but cars are often grimy and fellow passengers, usually heavy smokers, are plucked from Sartre's depiction of hell. Bus travel is by comparison well organized, relatively comfortable, and faster. That said, the national train carrier Bulgarian State Railways (BDZh) connects most towns in Bulgaria (with the exception of those located in mountainous Rhodopes and Pirin), and hosts a friendly website, so travelers use the rail system relatively easily (though note that outside of Sofia you'll still have to deal with signboards in Cyrillic, and no on-board indication that you've arrived at your destination); for timetables check http://bdz.creato.biz/en or www.bdz.bg. For information contact Sofia's Central Railway Station at tel. 02/932-3333.
By Plane -- Air travel is a tad indulgent, given that Bulgaria is relatively small (it takes 4-5 hr. to drive from Sofia to the coast), but if you need to get from one side of the country to the other fast, a few airlines connect Sofia with the coast.
