210km (130 miles) S of Jaipur; 279km (173 miles) SE of Udaipur; 438km (272 miles) SW of Agra
If you see only one off-the-beaten-track town in Rajasthan, the small town of Bundi, established in 1241, should be your first choice. It's worth a visit not just for the architectural magnificence of the palace that clings to the cliff above; the town's lack of modernization and abundance of temples, cenotaphs, and step wells; or even its renowned school of miniature paintings (arguably the best-value paintings in Rajasthan); it's the lack of hustling, which comes as a truly welcome relief. Approached through a gorge, the town is protected by the embracing hills of the Aravalli Hills, topped by Taragarh Fort, and life here goes on pretty much as it has for centuries. Because the population is in no way dependent on tourism, you are either greeted with real affection or total indifference. There's absolutely no sales pressure -- a refreshing change after the constant barrage of "Please come see," and "Special price for you" that follows you everywhere in the cities and more popular towns.
Exploring Bundi's narrow streets, with tiny cupboardlike shops raised a meter or more above street level to avoid the monsoon floods, feels like seeing the real India. Followed by giggling children trying to touch your hand or clothes, you will pass old men beating copper pots into perfect shape; tailors working with beautiful fabrics on ancient Singers; huge mounds of orange, red, and yellow spices offset by purple aubergines, red tomatoes, and green peppers; rickshaws carting women adorned in saris of saturated colors; and temples blaring live music -- fresh and natural images that will have you grabbing your camera every 2 minutes. Besides wandering the streets, you can walk to a number of attractions, of which Garh Palace (described by Rudyard Kipling as "the work of goblins" and one of the few examples of pure Rajput style) is not to be missed. Garh Palace's exterior is astounding, but sadly, much of the interior is falling apart; nevertheless, entry to some areas (with spectacular views of the blue-tinged town below) is now allowed (entry Rs 50/$1.25/65p, Rs 50/$1.25/65p camera, Rs 100/$2.45/£1.25 video; dawn-dusk) and makes for fascinating, hassle-free exploration. The labyrinthine network of rooms, chambers, balconies, and nooks and crannies turns up a good number of surprises, including murals in various states of faded elegance. Above the main part of the palace, you can also visit the arcaded Chitra Shala, which is decorated with many of the fine murals in the miniature style the town is famous for (free entry; dawn-dusk). Chitra Shala alone is worth the steep walk up to the imposing gates, as are the views of the town -- much of it painted the same blue seen in the more famous "blue city" of Jodhpur. For an even better vantage point, keep ascending the rough path that leads up to Taragarh (not necessarily to the top), for a great sense of peace (you're unlikely to encounter anyone, bar the Hanuman langur monkeys and a lone goat herder) and superb photo ops of the town. Back down in town, take a few minuts to visit Raniji-ki-Baori (the state's most impressive step well), which lies in a small park in the center of town; it dates back to the 17th century and features ornately carved gates, pillars, and friezes.
Sights farther afield, like Sukh Mahal, a summer palace where Kipling wrote Kim, are best explored with Haveli Braj Bhushanjee's picnic and sightseeing tour.
