Side Trips

The coastline of the Sea of Cortez northeast of San José has long been a favored destination of wave-hungry surfers, diehard anglers, and motivated escape artists who either challenge the dusty dirt roads by car, cruise by in sailboats or yachts, or fly their private planes to airstrips at out-of-the-way lodges. Little by little, this magnificent region -- so close yet so far from the pulse of Los Cabos -- is getting discovered and developed.

Technically, the East Cape region starts just east of downtown San José and continues about 89km (55 miles) up the coast to Buenavista. The drive can take up to 4 hours if you take the coastal road instead of the more efficient Highway 1, which winds through the mountains, but you'll get a first-rate view of everything the area has to offer: secret surf spots, desolate beaches, a coral-reef marine park, road runners, majestic cliffs, empty coves, lone burros, cactus forests, palm groves, craggy mountains, and more. And if you need proof of the East Cape's magic, take note of the size and opulence of the off-the-grid homes you'll find en route. If you're mesmerized by the natural beauty of the region, but can't decide where to lay your head, here's a quick guide to East Cape villages and resorts and a bit of what they have to offer. This is by no means comprehensive, as many of the surf spots and coves are home to small inns, private home rentals, and soft plots of tent-ready beach. The areas with more established resorts are listed below in the order you'd find them if you took the coastal road northeast of San José.

Beaches & Resort Towns

Just east of San José, on the outskirts of the Puerto Los Cabos development, is Laguna Hills, an area once loved for its empty beaches and pristine beachfront wilderness. Today, solar-powered homes and El Encanto de La Laguna, a new fractional ownership development, speckle the landscape beneath three mountain peaks, but Laguna Hills still retains its out-of-the-way charm, and it's a great jumping-off point for summer surf seekers. The only restaurant is the kitschy Buzzard's Bar & Grill (tel. 951/303-9384 in the U.S.; www.vivacabo.com), which fronts La Fonda del Mar, three palapa-topped casitas that make up this beachfront bed-and-breakfast.

Slightly northeast, the stretch of Zacatitos beach is heaven. Although only surfers and a community of homes are there now, it's rumored to be the site of an expansive Mayan Resorts golf course, resort, and real-estate development.

The beautiful bay of Los Frailes is just outside of the Cabo Pulmo Marine Park, and it's an angler's dream come true. The exclusive eight-cabana resort, Hotel Bahía Los Frailes (www.losfrailes.com) is closed for renovations indefinitely.

Cabo Pulmo is the tiny beach town 72km (45 miles) northeast of San José, and here the Sea of Cortez breaks on a coral reef, allowing only the finest bits of sand and smooth pebbles to pad the spectacular coastline. The coral itself is a sight to behold, but the real attraction is the flourishing fish life in this protected marine park. More than seven dive sites, desert hiking trails, secret coves, and some of the most beautiful stretches of beach in Baja make this my favorite place in the world to get away from it all. Pack a cooler of food and stay in a palapa-topped bungalow -- they all have kitchens -- at the Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort (tel. 562/366-0398 in the U.S., or 624/141-0885; www.cabopulmo.com).

In Punta Colorada, just past Punta Arena, the renowned gathering point for migrating warm-water game fish, the Hotel Punta Colorada (tel. 877/777-8862 in the U.S.; www.vanwormerresorts.com) brings charming accommodations to this breathtaking landscape. This area is ideal for bird-watching, hiking, fly-fishing, and catching roosterfish.

There's not much in the way of resorts in La Ribera, but this slow-paced fishing village is tops for relaxing by the sea. It's also home to the impressive Buena Fortuna Botanical Garden (no phone; siempresemillas@yahoo.com), which is open to visitors every day but Saturday.

In Buenavista, a fishing resort with no pretensions, Rancho Buena Vista (tel. 800/258-8200 in the U.S.; www.ranchobuenavista.com) has several one-story bungalows spread about the grounds. The simple rooms have red-tiled floors, good showers, double beds, and small patios. Hammocks hang under palms and by the swimming pool, and the bar/restaurant is the center of the action. The hotel has an excellent deep-sea-fishing fleet with its own dock and a private airstrip. Note that the info on the website is outdated.

The hills give way to sandy flats as you roll into Los Barriles off Highway 1. Colorful buildings accented by bright green palms may either be the inspiration for or the result of the thriving community of artists who live here. And the exquisite beaches, gentle breezes, excellent fishing, and subdued vibe draw expats in droves. Stay at the popular Hotel Palmas de Cortez (tel. 888/241-1543 in the U.S.; www.palmasdecortez.com) and visit Caleb's Café (tel. 624/141-0531) for breakfast, lunch, and the best Sunday-morning sticky buns of your life.

The remote coastal retreat of Punta Pescadero is simple in its finery, located on a point named for the top-notch fishing offshore, about 14km (8.7 miles) from Los Barriles. The 24-unit Punta Pescadero Paradise Hotel & Villas (tel. 800/332-4442 in the U.S., or 624/141-0101; www.puntapescaderoparadise.com) celebrates the luxury of peace and quiet. Delightfully well-appointed rooms and bathrooms are the best of any off-the-beaten-path resort in Baja, and the restaurant, which serves a full breakfast menu and two entree options daily for lunch and dinner, surprises and delights. Take into account the 1,050m (3,500-ft.) landing strip on the property and you've got rustic luxury at its best.