One of the French Riviera’s most secret retreats is back on the menu. This Haut-de-Cagnes hideaway once hosted low-key celebrities from Jacques Chirac to Marcel Pagnol. It reopened in 2013 after a painstaking renovation by its new Swedish owners. The family’s hotelier daughter, Frida Ivarsson, now presides over 26 individually-designed rooms. Each one is stocked with one-off antiques and trompe l’oeil paintings. The restaurant is something to write home about, serving up pan-fried scallops with diced lime, and mussel soup spritzed with Champagne. Set lunches cost 29€, set dinners 45€.