Planning a Trip

Getting There & Departing

By Plane -- The closest airport to Cahuita is found in Limón . A taxi from the airport to Cahuita should cost around $15 (£7.50). You can also just walk the long block from the airport terminal to the main road south and flag down any of the frequent buses that pass by.

By Car -- Follow the directions above for getting to Limón. As you enter Limón, about 5 blocks before the busiest section of downtown, watch for a paved road to the right, just before the railroad tracks. Take this road south to Cahuita, passing the airstrip and the beach on your left as you leave Limón. Alternatively, there's a turnoff with signs for Sixaola and La Bomba several miles before Limón. This winding shortcut skirts the city and puts you on the coastal road several miles south of town.

Tip: As you drive along the coastal road between Limón and Cahuita, keep your eye out for roadside stands selling fresh, green coconuts, or pipas in Spanish. Green coconuts have very little meat, but are filled with copious amounts of slightly sweet, clear liquid that is amazingly refreshing. According to local legend, this liquid is pure enough to be used as plasma in an emergency situation. Armed with a machete, the pipa seller will cut of the top and stick in a straw. In the best of cases, the pipa will have been cooled over ice. The entire thing should cost around $1 (50p).

By Bus -- Mepe express buses (tel. 257-8129) leave San José daily at 6 and 10am, noon, and 2 and 4pm from the new Caribbean bus terminal (Gran Terminal del Caribe) on Calle Central, 1 block north of Avenida 11. The trip's duration is 4 hours; the fare is $6.30 (£3.15). During peak periods, extra buses are often added. However, it's wise to check because this bus line (Mepe) is one of the most fickle.

Alternatively, you can catch a bus to Limón and then transfer to a Cahuita- or Puerto Viejo-bound bus (tel. 758-1572) in Limón. These latter buses leave roughly every hour between 5am and 6pm from in front of Radio Casino, which is 1 block north of the municipal market. Buses from Limón to Manzanillo also stop in Cahuita and leave from the same spot daily at 6 and 10am and 3 and 6pm. The trip takes 1 hour; the fare is $1.50 (75p).

Gray Line (tel. 220-2126; www.graylinecostarica.com) has a daily bus that leaves San José for Cahuita at 6:30am. The return bus leaves Cahuita at 11:30pm. Interbus (tel. 283-5573; www.interbusonline.com) has a daily bus that leaves San José for Cahuita at 7:50am. The return bus leaves Cahuita at 1:40pm. Both companies will pick you up at most area hotels in both San José and Cahuita, and both charge $29 (£15) for a one-way fare.

Buses departing Puerto Viejo and Sixaola (on the Panama border) stop in Cahuita at approximately 7, 9:30, and 11:30am, and 4:30pm en route to San José. However, this schedule is far from precise, so it's always best to check with your hotel. Moreover, these buses are often full, particularly on weekends and throughout the high season. To avoid standing in the aisle all the way to San José, it is sometimes better to take a bus first to Limón and then catch one of the frequent Limón-San José buses. Buses to Limón pass through Cahuita regularly throughout the day. Another tactic I've used is to take a morning bus to Puerto Viejo, spend the day down there, and board a direct bus to San José at its point of origin, thereby snagging a seat.

Orientation

There are only about eight dirt streets in Cahuita. The highway runs parallel to the coast, with three main roads running perpendicular. The northernmost of these roads bypasses town and brings you to the northern end of Playa Negra. It's marked with signs for the Magellan Inn and other hotels up on this end. The second road in brings you to the southern end of Playa Negra, a half-mile closer to town. Look for signs for Atlantida Lodge. The third road is the principal entrance into town. The village's main street in town, which runs parallel to the highway, dead-ends at the entrance to the national park (a footbridge over a small stream).

Buses drop their passengers by a small public park in front of Coco's Bar. Across from the park you'll find a helpful large-scale map of the town. If you come in on the bus and are staying at a lodge on Playa Negra, ask around town for a cab, or head out walking north on the street that runs between Coco's Bar and the small park. This road curves to the left and continues a mile or so out to Playa Negra.

Fast Facts

You can wash your clothes at the self-service laundromat in front of Cabinas Vaz. One load in the washer or dryer costs $1.50 (75p). The police station (tel. 755-0217) is located where the road from Playa Negra turns into town. The post office, next door to the police station, is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm.

If you can't find a cab in town, try calling René (tel. 755-0243), Wayne (tel. 755-0078), or Dino (tel. 755-0012). You can also rent a scooter from Sucurucú (tel. 755-0218), which is located in village, at Cabinas Vaz.