Attractions

Exploring Cahuita National Park

On arrival, you'll immediately feel the call of the long scimitar of beach that stretches south from the edge of town. This beach can be glimpsed through the trees from Cahuita's sun-baked main street and extends a promise of relief from the heat. Although the lush coastal forest and picture-perfect palm lines are a tremendous draw, the park was actually created to preserve the 240-hectare (787-acre) coral reef that surrounds it. The reef contains 35 species of coral and provides a haven for hundreds of brightly colored tropical fish. You can walk on the beach itself or follow the trail that runs through the forest just behind the beach to check out the reef.

The best place to swim is just before or beyond the Río Perezoso (Lazy River), several hundred meters inside Cahuita National Park. The trail behind the beach is great for bird-watching, and if you're lucky, you might see some monkeys or a sloth. The loud grunting sounds you'll hear off in the distance are the calls of howler monkeys, which can be heard from more than a kilometer away. Nearer at hand, you're likely to hear crabs scuttling amid the dry leaves on the forest floor -- a half-dozen or so species of land crabs live in this region -- my favorites are the bright orange-and-purple ones.

The trail behind the beach stretches a little more than 6.4km (4 miles) to the southern end of the park at Puerto Vargas, where you'll find a beautiful white-sand beach, the park headquarters, and a primitive campground with showers and outhouses. It's a nice, flat walk, but a rewarding one because there's good wildlife viewing and access to the beach. The reef is off the point just north of Puerto Vargas, and you can snorkel here. If you don't dawdle, the hike to Puerto Vargas should take no more than 2 hours each way. Bring plenty of mosquito repellent because this area can be buggy.

Although there's snorkeling at Puerto Vargas, the nicest coral heads are several hundred meters offshore, and it's best to have a boat take you out. A 3-hour snorkel trip costs between $15 and $30 (£7.50-£15) per person with equipment. You can arrange one with any of the local tour companies listed below. Note: These trips are best taken when the seas are calm -- for safety's sake, visibility, and comfort.

Entry Points, Fees & Regulations -- The in-town park entrance is just over a footbridge at the end of the village's main street. It has bathroom facilities, changing rooms, and storage lockers. This is the best place to enter if you just want to spend the day on the beach and maybe take a little hike in the bordering forest.

The alternate park entrance is at the southern end of the park in Puerto Vargas. This is where you should come if you plan to camp at the park or if you don't feel up to hiking a couple of hours to reach the good snorkeling spots. The road to Puerto Vargas is approximately 5km (3 miles) south of Cahuita on the left.

Officially, admission is $10 (£5) per person per day, but this is collected only at the Puerto Vargas entrance. You can enter the park from the town of Cahuita for free or with a voluntary contribution. The park is open from dawn to dusk for day visitors.

Camping is an extra $2 (£1) per person. Fifty campsites at Puerto Vargas stretch along for several kilometers and are either right on or just a few steps from the beach. My favorite are those farthest from the entrance. A small ranger station has basic shower and bathroom facilities, but they're a bit far from some of the better campsites.

Getting There -- By Car -- The turnoff for the Puerto Vargas entrance is clearly marked 7km (4 1/3 miles) south of Cahuita.

By Bus -- Your best bet is to get off a Puerto Viejo- or Sixaola-bound bus at the turnoff for the Puerto Vargas entrance (well marked, but tell the bus driver in advance). The guard station/entrance is only about 500m (1,640 ft.) down this road. However, the campsites are several kilometers farther, so it's a long hike with a heavy pack.