You don't have to go all the way to the Outer Reef to see coral. Less than an hour from the city wharf, Green Island has snorkeling equal to that on the Great Barrier Reef. Fitzroy Island has rainforest walks, coral accessible by dive and snorkel boat trips from the island, and watersports.
Green Island -- This 15-hectare (37-acre) coral cay, surrounded by dazzling coral and marine life, is just 27km (17 miles) east of Cairns. You can rent snorkel gear, windsurfers, and paddle-skis; take glass-bottom-boat trips; go parasailing; take an introductory or certified dive; walk vine-forest trails; or laze on the beach. The beach is coral sand, so it's a little rough underfoot. Day visitors have access to one of Green Island Resort's pools, its main bar, casual or upscale restaurants, and lockers and showers. Ask the beach staff to recommend the best snorkeling spots. If you don't snorkel, it's worth the admission charge to see the display of clown fish, potato cod, and anemones at the little underwater observatory, despite its cloudy old viewing windows. The island has a small attraction called Marineland Melanesia (tel. 07/4051 4032), where you can see old nautical artifacts, primitive art, a turtle and reef aquarium, and live crocodiles. Admission is A$11 (US$8.80/UK£4.40) adults, A$5 (US$4/UK£2) kids; croc shows are at 10:30am and 1:45pm.
Great Adventures (tel. 07/4044 9944; www.greatadventures.com.au) and Big Cat Green Island Reef Cruises (tel. 07/4051 0444; www.bigcat-cruises.com.au) run to Green Island from Cairns. A half-day trip with snorkel gear or a glass-bottom-boat cruise with Great Adventures costs A$60 (US$48/UK£24), with full-day trips starting at A$102 (US$82/UK£41) from Cairns. Big Cat makes a day trip for A$62 (US$50/UK£25). Big Cat's boat is slightly slower, but you still get more than 5 hours on the island. Great Adventures also has transfer-only rates of A$60 (US$48/UK£24), which also gives access to the island's day facilities. Both companies pick up from hotels in Cairns, the northern beaches, and Port Douglas for an extra cost; Big Cat also runs to the island direct from Palm Cove.
Fitzroy Island -- Scenic Fitzroy Island (www.fitzroyisland.com.au), a rainforested national park 45 minutes from Cairns, offers good diving. The island's only resort closed for redevelopment in 2006 and was still closed at press time for this book, but by the time you get here it may be operating again (reopening was scheduled for early 2007). However, you can still take a day trip there for diving, watersports, or just to take a hike to the lighthouse at the top of the hill. A day trip can cost as little as the round-trip ferry fare, A$47 (US$38/UK£19) adults and A$26 (US$21/UK£10) for kids 4 to 14. Departures from Cairns are daily at 8:30 and 10:30am, returning at 9:30am and 3pm. Make reservations through Raging Thunder Adventures (tel. 07/4030 7990; www.ragingthunder.com.au). Raging Thunder also runs full-day guided sea kayak expeditions to Fitzroy Island. Sea kayak trips include 3 hours of kayaking, snorkeling gear, a picnic lunch on a deserted beach, and a rainforest walk to the lighthouse. Trips cost A$170 (US$136/UK£68) per person from Cairns, and participants must be over 12.
