Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- There are daily 2-hour flights from Lima and 1-hour flights from Trujillo aboard AeroCondor (tel. 01/614-6014; www.aerocondor.com.pe) and flights from Lima on LC Busre (tel. 01/619-1300; www.lcbusre.com.pe). Flights range from $89 to $119 (£45-£60).

The Armando Revoredo Aeropuerto de Cajamarca (tel. 076/362-523) is just 3km (1 3/4 miles) east of the Plaza de Armas. To downtown Cajamarca, a taxi costs S/5 ($1.65/85p).

By Bus -- Cruz del Sur (tel. 01/311-5050; www.cruzdelsur.com.pe) and Expreso Cia (tel. 01/428-5218) make the 12-hour trip from Lima to Cajamarca. Transportes Línea (tel. 076/363-956 or 044/245-181; www.transporteslinea.com.pe) travels from Lima, Trujillo (6 hr.), and Chiclayo (5-6 hr.). The bus terminals are located mostly on Av. Atahualpa and Av. Zavala, about 3km (1 3/4 miles) from the center of town.

Visitor Information

There's a branch of the Regional Tourism Office within the massive Conjunto Monumental de Belén complex at Jr. Belén 600 (tel. 076/362-997). It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1pm and 2:30 to 6:30pm. The office has a handful of photocopied materials and some brochures for sale, including a self-published tourist information guide. There's another small Oficina de Información Turística, associated with the university, at Batán 289 (tel. 076/361-546), which is very helpful and gives out free city maps. It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1pm.

Fast Facts -- Two banks are Interbank, 2 de Mayo on the Plaza de Armas (tel. 076/362-4600), and Banco de Crédito, Jr. del Comercio 679 (tel. 076/362-742). Neither of these banks exchanges traveler's checks. There are generally money-changers on the Plaza de Armas and Jr. del Batán; there are also several small casas de cambio in the same area.

In an emergency, call tel. 105. The police are located at Amalia Puga 807 (tel. 076/362-832). For medical attention, go to Hospital Regional, Mario Urteaga 500 (tel. 076/362-156); Clínica San Francisco, Av. Grau (tel. 076/362-050); or Clínica Limatambo, Puno s/n (tel. 076/364-241).

For Internet access, try Efenet, Jr. Dos de Mayo, CyberNet, Comercio 924, or Atajo, Jr. del Comercio 716 (tel. 076/362-245). Atajo is open until 1am and offers cheap international Internet calls.

Cajamarca's Serpost (post office) is at Amalia Puga 778 (tel. 076/364-065). There's a DHL/Western Union office at Dos de Mayo 323 (tel. 076/364-674), within the Cajamarca Tours office. The Telefónica del Perú office is at Dos de Mayo 460 on the Plaza de Armas (tel. 076/364-008).

Getting Around

The major sights of interest in Cajamarca are all around the Plaza de Armas or within easy walking distance of it. Except for the Inca Baths, you're unlikely to require transportation unless you're staying at one of the country hotels on the outskirts of town, which are serviced by taxi and, to a lesser extent, colectivo.

By Taxi -- Taxis are easy to come by in the center of Cajamarca. They circulate around the Plaza de Armas and the streets leading off it. Most in-town fares are about S/3 ($1/50p). To call a cab, try Taxi Seguro (tel. 076/365-103) or Taxis Unidos (tel. 076/368-888).

By Organized Tours -- Reliable tour agencies include Inca Baths Tours, Jr. Amalia Puga 653 (tel. 076/362-938); Cumbe Mayo Tours, Jr. Amalia Puga 635 (tel. 076/822-938); and Cajamarca Travel, Jr. Dos de Mayo 570 (tel. 076/365-651). These companies offer city tours and inexpensive, pooled half- and full-day tours to sights in the countryside around Cajamarca (including Cumbe Mayo, Otuzco, Colpa, and Inca Baths). Most standard tours cost S/20 to S/25 ($6.60-$8.25/£3.40-£4.25). Several agencies also offer long-distance tours to the famed but remote Kuélap ruins for around $550 (£275) per person. All agencies advertise English-speaking guides, but fluency is a relative term. The best bets are Inca Baths Tours and Cumbe Mayo Tours.

Carnaval in Cajamarca

Cajamarca is a very traditional Andean highland city, but it lets loose once a year during Carnaval. Its pre-Lenten festivities are said to be the wildest in Peru. Full of music and dance, it also takes on aspects of a high-school locker room. Paint, water, and even bodily fluids (!) are flung around with abandon, so wear a raincoat. If you want to experience (subject yourself to?) Cajamarca's Carnaval, plan ahead. It's very popular with Peruvians, and hotels sell out. Another festive time in Cajamarca, formerly Peru's grandest Inca celebration, is Corpus Christi (May or June), which includes lots of processions, music, bullfights, and horse shows.