What's New

San Francisco

What's new in San Francisco is that the city has become obsessed with going green. Never a city to just follow environmental issues, San Francisco is aggressively spearheading America's movement to reduce greenhouse gasses by showing its citizens and corporations how even little changes can, in the long run, make a difference to the environment. And because tourism is the world's largest industry, even you can contribute to the environmentally conscious campaign by being a carbon-neutral vacationer.

But first, let's save you some other kind of green -- money. If you plan on seeing a lot of attractions in the city, you might want purchase the new Go San Francisco Card, a sort of money-saving e-ticket that gets you prepaid entry to about 45 of the most popular attractions in the city, Bay Area, and Wine Country, including museums, walking tours, bike rentals, wine tastings, and sightseeing tours. Another option is the San Francisco CityPass, which focuses more on the city-wide sights and costs slightly less. I suggest researching both via their websites to decide which is better for you. By the way, both the Go Card and CityPass offer unlimited public transportation -- including cable cars, Metro streetcars, and the entire bus system -- throughout the city, so you'll increase your carbon-neutral karma just by purchasing one.

The hotel you stay in can also make a difference to the environment. For example, the San Francisco's new $25-million Orchard Garden Hotel (tel. 888/717-2881; www.theorchardgardenhotel.com) is California's first generation of truly "green" hotels and the only hotel in the state that was built to the nationally accepted standards for green buildings developed by the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC). Just about every aspect of this vanguard accommodation is geared toward creating a healthy environment for guests and staff, from the ecofriendly construction materials to an in-room recycling system.

Numerous other hotels within the city are joining the green bandwagon as well, from using citrus-based cleaning products to installing low-flow toilets and florescent or LED lighting.

Even what and where you eat can make a difference. I've added many restaurants to the San Francisco chapter in this edition, almost all of which use locally harvested organic foods, steroid-free meats from Northern California ranchers, and fresh coastal seafood and as often as possible -- much of it purchased by local chefs directly from the amazing Farmers Market (tel. 415/291-3276; www.cuesa.org). Some of my favorite supporters include A16, Ame, Chez Panisse (of course), Delfina, Kokkari, The Slanted Door, and Zuni Cafe, but there are dozens more throughout the city.

And who thought going green could be so much fun? There's a new tour run by the San Francisco Electric Tour Company (tel. 415/474-3130; www.sfelectrictour.com) where you ride around on Segway Human Transporters, those weird-looking, upright, battery-powered scooters you've probably seen on TV. After a 40-minute lesson you tool around Fisherman's Wharf on a fun and informative guided tour (way better than a stinky, polluting bus tour). You'll also want to check out the new talking GoCars (tel. 800/91-GOCAR; www.gocarsf.com). I see them all over town now -- tiny yellow three-wheeled convertible vehicles that are cleverly guided by a talking GPS (Global Positioning System) and give computer-guided tour of the city's highlights. As you drive, the talking car tells you where to turn and what landmarks you're passing. They both very fun and far more energy efficient than a car or tour bus.

In other news, the magnificent de Young Museum (tel. 415/863-3330; www.thinker.org) in Golden Gate Park is the city's new must-see site. The museum's collection includes American paintings, African arts, sculptural and decorative arts, and textiles, but it's the building itself that will amaze you -- a striking facade consisting of 950,000 pounds of textured and perforated copper and a 144-foot tower that slowly spirals toward the sky.

And since we're on the green theme, I can't help but mention my favorite museum: The Exploratorium (tel. 415/EXPLORE; www.exploratorium.edu). Scientific American magazine calls it "the best science museum in the world" and I couldn't agree more. Inside you'll find dozens of mind-blowing interactive exhibits, including ones that study how human activity affects the earth's climate (and how you can help make a difference). It's like a mad scientist's penny arcade, an educational fun house, and an experimental laboratory all rolled into one.

The Bay Area

In this 2008 edition I've added about a dozen of my favorite things to see and do in the Bay Area (mi barrio), starting with the best spa treatment I've ever had (and I've had many) at The Claremont Resort & Spa in Berkeley (tel. 800/551-7266; www.claremontresort.com), a grand Victorian hotel that's been one of nation's top spa resorts for nearly a century. But before my 5-hour "Indulgence" treatment -- hey, I'm worth it -- I headed over to Alice Waters' Cafe Fanny (tel. 510/524-5447; www.cafefanny.com) in Berkeley for some soft-boiled, farm-fresh eggs on Levain toast and a side of buckwheat crepes with house-made preserves.

In the neighboring city of Oakland my top pick for tourists is a leisurely scenic trip aboard the USS Potomac (tel. 510/627-1215; www.usspotomac.org), President Franklin D. Roosevelt's fully restored "Floating White House." The 165-foot presidential yacht, berthed at Jack London Square, offers 2-hour "History Cruises" along the San Francisco waterfront, and they're so popular you need to make advance reservations to climb aboard.

I've also added the tiny bayside town of Tiburon to this edition. Sure, you can stroll along the waterfront and browse the overpriced boutiques, but eventually you'll end up at my favorite outdoor cafe in California, Sam's Anchor Café (tel. 415/435-4527; www.samscafe.com), where on summer weekends the best party in the Bay Area is at Sam's huge dockside deck where sun-starved San Franciscans suck down margaritas until sunset, then take the ferry home.

Directly across Richardson's Bay from Tiburon is Sausalito, another Honey-why-don't-we-live-here? kinda town with billion-dollar views. Sure, you could spend a small fortune dining at the bayside restaurants, but I've added a better suggestion to this edition: Pick up some sandwiches, proscuitto, and stuffed vine leaves at Sausalito's Venice Gourmet Delicatessen (tel. 415/332-3544; www.venicegourmet.com), have a romantic picnic at the seaside park, walk over to the Horizons restaurant (tel. 415/331-3232; www.horizonssausalito.com) for Bloody Marys on their waterside terrace, then take the ferry back to San Francisco. That's how I'd do it.

Lastly, Angel Island (the little island near Alcatraz Island) is now offering guided Segway tours (tel. 415/435-3392; www.segwayangelisland.com) of the island from March through November. The 2 1/2-hour interpretive tour circles the island's paved Perimeter Trail and cost $65.

The Northern California Coast

The big news this year is that tallest tree in the world, the mighty Stratosphere Giant, isn't. That is, somebody found a tree in Redwood National Park that's 8.1 feet taller than the 370-foot Giant (trust me, this is big news for the sleepy North Coast). Which is why you want to book a room at the newly renovated Trinidad Bay Bed & Breakfast (tel. 707/677-0840; www.trinidadbaybnb.com) an ultracharming Cape Cod-style B&B that's perched 175 feet above the ocean with achingly beautiful views of Trinidad Bay. The new owners have done a fantastic job of adding cheery new touches to the entire property, and the Redwood National and State Parks are a short drive away.

Farther down the coast just south of Mendocino is the Elk Cove Inn & Spa (tel. 707/877-3321; www.elkcoveinn.com), a newcomer to this edition and one of the most romantic lodgings in California. The spectacular coastal views, cliff-side ocean cottages with wood-burning fireplaces, and deep-tissue massages at their full-service day spa will have you thinking same-time-next-year long before you check out.

Continuing down the coast to Bodega Bay and Point Reyes, some welcome newcomers I've discovered include Dees Bayside Deli (tel. 707/875-8881) in Bodega Bay, where travelers can enjoy big bowls of fresh, tangy crab cioppino doled out by the pint (in season) and huge baskets of fresh fish and chips available year-round; Rosie's Cowboy Cookhouse (tel. 415/663-8868) at Point Reyes Station, serving hearty dishes such as rib-eye steak, pulled pork sandwiches, and Niman Ranch beef chili, all prepared from scratch in their kitchen using natural, free-range, and organic ingredients; and Drake's Bay Oyster Farm (tel. 415/669-1149; www.drakesbayfamilyfarms.com) within Point Reyes National Seashore, where visitors can buy fresh-out-of-the-water oysters by the sack-full -- and at bargain prices -- and eat them right on the beach with a dab of Drake's special sauce.

Just south of Point Reyes near Stinson Beach are the Steep Ravine Environmental Cabins (tel. 800/444-7275; www.reserveamerica.com). For a mere $75 you can stay the night in a rustic, romantic redwood cabin just steps from a small, secluded beach -- that is, if you're persistent enough to get a reservation (they sell out quickly). Each cabin sleeps up to five, but only comes with a wood-burning stove, platform beds, running water, and an outhouse. The rest is up to you.

Farther down the coast, about 30 miles south of San Francisco, is Half Moon Bay, one of my favorite day-trip destinations from the city. I'm always discovering new places in HMB to include in the guidebook, such as the Flying Fish Grill (tel. 650/712-1125) at the corner of Main Street and Highway 92, which makes the best fresh fish tacos on the coast, and the Garden Deli Café (tel. 650/726-3425), a hole-in-the-wall lunch counter that cranks out huge, top-notch sandwiches on thick house-made bread. Then there's Barbara's Fish Trap (tel. 650/728-7049), a lively, popular seafood restaurant serving excellent rock cod fish and chips and house-made clam chowder; Moss Beach Distillery (tel. 650/728-5595; www.mossbeachdistillery.com), where you can snuggle with your partner on the romantic patio overlooking the Pacific while noshing on Dungeness crab cakes (they even provide blankets); and Sushi Main Street (tel. 650/726-6336; www.sushimainstreethmb.com), serving the region's best sushi in a beautiful room filled with museum-quality Balinese artifacts. As for lodging, The Zaballa House (tel. 650/726-9123; www.zaballahouse.net), a pretty pale-blue Victorian on Main Street, is a welcome addition for those looking for an unpretentious and relatively inexpensive place to stay in Bodega Bay.

A few miles south of Half Moon Bay I discovered a few more coastal gems. Founded in 1894, Duarte's Tavern (tel. 650/879-0464; www.duartestavern.com) in Pescadero looks like just another unassuming small-town restaurant, but it's practically world famous for its legendary artichoke soup and house-baked pies. The fourth generation of Duartes continues to serve home-cooked style meals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner -- it's an all-American experience that shouldn't be missed. And just south of Pescadero is Phipps Country Store and Farm (tel. 650/879-0787; www.phippscountry.com), a great family-friendly destination I discovered recently where you can pick your own pesticide-free olallieberries, strawberries, and boysenberries in the adjacent fields for a mere $2 a pound.

The Central and Southern Coasts

he rich keep getting richer. Why else would someone spend $145 million to renovate the already flawless Four Seasons Resort in Santa Barbara, 1260 Channel Dr. (tel. 800/819-5053; www.fourseasons.com/santabarbara)? If you can afford it, great; if not, splurge. It's so beautiful here that my girlfriend cried while watching a wedding from our guest room window.

Personally, I'd rather get married at the newly renovated Madonna Inn (tel. 800/543-9666; www.madonnainn.com) in San Lois Obispo, the most superfluously showy hotel this side of Graceland. Yes, it's still awash in perpetual pink and the themed rooms are as wondrously tacky as ever, but now they've added new state-of-the-art spa, pool (not just any pool, but one with a 30-ft. beach-style entry and 25-ft. cascading waterfall flowing into a lagoon), and fitness facility.

Ventura Beach, one of my favorite beach communities in California, has opened the new Crowne Plaza Ventura Beach (tel. 805/648-2100; www.cpventura.com), the town's only beachfront hotel. It fronts a wonderful walking and biking path that winds along the coast, and it's also within walking distance of downtown Ventura (really, you'll love this friendly beach town).

Over in Ojai -- located between Santa Barbara and Ventura -- I dropped a small fortune on dinner and wine at the new Auberge at Ojai (tel. 805/646-2288; www.aubergeatojai.com), but it was well worth it. The braised short ribs were divine, and Grandmother's Chicken was the single best chicken dish I've ever had (and I've eaten a lot of chicken).

Los Angeles

L.A. and Madonna have a lot in common: They're always one step ahead of the trends. Trying to keep up with the constant changes in this amorphous metropolis is a full-time job because what was in last year is probably out this year.

For example, you've probably never heard of the Los Angeles Galaxy soccer team, but now that soccer megasuperstar David Beckham and his pop star wife, Victoria Beckham, have crossed the pond to play in L.A., it's now "in" to go to a Major League Soccer match at the Home Depot Center (tel. 877/3-GALAXY; www.lagalaxy.com). Move over, Kobe -- there's a new kid in town.

The other big news this year is the reopening of the historic Rebel Without a Cause hangout, the Griffith Observatory (tel. 213/473-0800; www.griffithobservatory.org), which was closed for renovation for what seemed like forever and finally reopened after a massive $93-million renovation. Be sure to make a shuttle reservation ASAP and arrive early to score tickets to the new Planetarium show.

The city's other must-see newcomer is the Getty Villa Malibu (tel. 310/440-7300; www.getty.edu). After 8 years and $275 million, the newly renovated Villa -- the former residence of J. Paul Getty -- is the most talked-about attraction in the city, combining dazzling ocean views, stunning architecture, and no admission charge to peruse a world-class collection of Greek, Roman, and Etruscan artifacts.

If this is all too cerebral for you, opt instead for a beachside bicycle tour now being offered by Perry's Beach Café & Rentals in Santa Monica (tel. 310/372-3138). It's a great way to explore the area while learning about its history and landmark architecture.

If you want to see a play or performance while you're in town, you definitely want to stop by the new Visitor Information Center at the Hollywood & Highland Center at 6801 Hollywood Blvd. Sure, they carry the ubiquitous tourist brochures, but it's the half-price theater tickets they sell to dozens of venues throughout the city that makes this big news. Tickets are released on Tuesdays for shows that week, so visitors can select not only the production but the specific day they would like to attend. By the way, one of those entertainment venues is the new 7,200-seat Nokia Theatre, part of the $4.5-billion, 4-million-square-foot "LA Live" complex being built over the next five years to complement the STAPLES Center and the Los Angeles Convention Center.

As for new lodging in L.A., if you can afford it (really, it's worth the splurge), book a room at the newly reopened Sunset Tower Hotel (tel. 800/225-2637; www.sunsettowerhotel.com). It's one of my favorites, offering just about everything you could hope for in Los Angeles hotel -- a celebrity-filled history, glamour, nonsnooty service, beautiful Deco-era decor, and an ideal Sunset Strip location. Another lodging newcomer is the Westside's Hotel Angeleno Los Angeles (tel. 800/264-3536; www.hotelangeleno.com), one of those old-school circular hotels from the 1960s that has been revamped into a hip hostelry complete with a penthouse restaurant and lounge that's overflowing with L.A.'s young and beautiful.

For serious shoppers and those who hate to drive, I've included The Orlando (tel. 800/62-HOTEL; www.theorlando.com). Located in the heart of the Third Street Shopping District between Beverly Hills and West Hollywood, it's within walking distance of The Grove, Farmers Market, and the Beverly Center, so you can leave the car in the parking lot for most of your stay.

It's yet another crazy year for restaurant openings (and closings) in L.A. What has all the local foodies agog this year is the opening of celeb-chef Nancy Silverton's Pizzeria Mozza (tel. 323/297-0101; www.mozza-la.com). Locals are calling up to 2 months in advance for an opportunity to experience Nancy's artisanal pies -- yes, it's worth the wait -- and the celebrity spotting here, currently the best bet in the city. Other new additions this year include the Kings Road Cafe (tel. 323/655-9044; www.kingsroadcafe.com), a local favorite with sunny sidewalk seating, a fantastic chipotle chicken salad, great people-watching, and the occasional celebrity sighting; The Little Door (tel. 323/951-1210; www.thelittledoor.com), one of L.A.'s most romantic restaurants serving French/Mediterranean cuisine in a countryside-quaint setting; Katana Robata & Sushi Bar (tel. 323/650-8585; www.katanarobata.com), a sexy Sunset Strip Japanese restaurant that introduced robata-yaki to L.A.'s sushi-addicted pretty people; and the Saddle Ranch Chop House (tel. 323/656-2007; www.srrestaurants.com) a hokey but fun taste of Texas on the Sunset Strip, complete with big platters of ribs, giant cocktails, and even a mechanical bull.

As for new nightlife in L.A., the new Eleven (tel. 310/855-0800; www.eleven.la) restaurant and nightclub in West Hollywood is the current celebrity hot spot. It's called Eleven because at that appointed time there's a sort of Cirque du Soleil-style performance involving a high-wire setup. Not that there's anything wrong with being a WeHo nightclub, but I prefer the new 18th-floor Penthouse restaurant, bar, and lounge at the Huntley Santa Monica Beach hotel (tel. 310/394-5454; www.thehuntleyhotel.com). The combo of incredible views, lively bar scene, top-notch eye-candy, and zero attitude make this my kind of club (and hotel).

And because it made international news headlines, I've also added the Laugh Factory (tel. 323/656-1336; www.laughfactory.com) to the comedy club lineup. Yes, this is where Michael Richards, aka Kramer, made a complete ass of himself (and where Mr. Richards is no longer welcome).

Side Trips from LA

New to this edition is a section on the highlights on Long Beach, the fifth-largest city in California. For tourists the two must-sees here are The Queen Mary (tel. 562/435-3511; www.queenmary.com), the famous 81,237-ton Art Deco luxury liner and only surviving example of this particular kind of 20th-century elegance and excess (it's a floating hotel as well); and the Aquarium of the Pacific (tel. 562/590-3100; www.aquariumofpacific.org), one of the largest aquariums in the U.S. with more than 12,500 creatures on display. As for dining, my top two suggestions are the romantic Sky Room restaurant (tel. 562/983-2703; www.theskyroom.com), built in 1926 during the Art Deco period and meticulously restored; and the far more casual Yard House (tel. 562/628-0455; www.yardhouse.com), the best outdoor dining venue in Long Beach and home to one of the world's largest selection of draft beers.

Lastly, if you're anywhere near San Juan Capistrano you have to stop for breakfast or lunch at my new favorite restaurant in Southern California: the Ramos House Café (tel. 949/443-1342; www.ramoshouse.com). At this petite charmer everything -- from roast turkey hash scramble with apple cider gravy to corn and buttermilk crab cakes -- is made from scratch (even the ice cream is turned by hand). Believe me -- you will love this place.