What's New

San Francisco -- One of the greatest challenges of producing a travel guide is keeping on top of the never-ending changes that take place in San Francisco, a city that is always in flux. This section highlights the latest trends, attractions, and openings, so be sure to add them to your to-do list while exploring the city.

What's been the norm in L.A. and New York for the past half-decade has finally permeated the San Francisco hospitality industry: hip boutique hotels created by cutting-edge design companies with destination bar/lounges and restaurants run by celebrity chefs. In this edition, I've added five formerly frumpy Union Square hotels that have been transmogrified from just a place to stay to the place to be.

Take the new Hotel Vertigo (tel. 800/553-1900) for instance. Playful, eclectic decor by Thomas Schoos Design, Inc., and food by celebrity chef Tyler Florence. Same with the Hotel Frank (tel. 800/553-1900): A major renovation in the fall of 2008 incorporates a blend of popular design trends through the decades, from turn-of-the-20th-century Beaux Art classicism to '40s Art Deco and retro '60s chic.

Other examples include the newly renovated Villa Florence (tel. 866/823-4669) and its slick new Bar Norcini wine bar; the Hotel Metropolis (tel. 800/553-1900) and its yin-and-yang combo of cheeky decor and Zen ambience; and, my new favorite, the Hotel Union Square (tel. 800/553-1900), built in 1913 for the 1915 Pan Pacific Exposition, yet now one of the sexiest hotels in the city. If lace curtains and doilies just won't do, any of these five new hotels will satisfy the snob in you.

As for dining in SF, for the first time in decades someone has finally opened a true destination restaurant on the Embarcadero. Heck, they built two. The duo of EPIC Roasthouse (tel. 415/369-9955) and the adjacent Waterbar (tel. 415/284-9922) has managed to get even us restaurant-jaded locals excited. Design genius Pat Kuleto worked his magic yet again to create two of the sexiest restaurants in the city. Even if the prices are beyond your budget, you really need to stop by both restaurants to admire what the confluence of money, style, and setting can produce.

Two other restaurant newcomers that are getting national press are Ducca (tel. 415/977-0271) and Spruce (tel. 415/931-5100). The former is my new favorite Italian restaurant in the city -- the things Executive Chef Richard J. Corbo can do with buffalo mozzarella are humbling -- while the latter is the new darling of the Pacific Heights ladies-who-lunch crowd and worth the drive across town just for the burger and fries.

It took forever, but the city finally got around to opening the new California Academy of Sciences (tel. 415/379-8000). It took 4 years and $500 million dollars, but the results are wow. It's the only institution in the world that combines an aquarium, planetarium, natural history museum, and scientific research program under one roof?and what a roof it is: a 2 1/2-acre undulating garden canopy carpeted with over a million plants and flowers. With so much to see and do at the Academy, you could easily spend an entire day roaming among the high-tech exhibits. Along with the brilliant de Young Museum and beautiful Conservatory of Flowers, it's yet another reason why everyone who's vacationing in San Francisco should spend at least 1 full day in Golden Gate Park.

As for nightlife in SF, the more things change . . . Your parents might remember when San Francisco's Fillmore Corridor was the swingingest jazz venue in the 1940s and 1950s. While not quite back to its halcyon days, this revitalized stretch of Fillmore Street, just south of Geary Boulevard, is once again the top West Coast destination for jazz music now that the new Yoshi's Jazz Club (tel. 415/655-5600) has opened. The two-story, 28,000-square-foot jazz venue is attracting some of the finest jazz artists in the world, such as Stanton Moore, Branford Marsalis, and Diana Krall. Even if you're not a jazz fan, it's still worth the trip to revel in the coolness of it all.

On an entirely different note, I've also added some info about the best drag shows in the city. If you're out on a Friday night and looking for something that's off the straight-laced path, head to the Cinch (tel. 415/776-4162) for its weekly Charlie Horse drag show. On weekends, check out Harry Denton's Starlight Room (tel. 415/395-8595): Their Sunday's a Drag brunch performance is fit for a queen.

Northern California Wine Country -- While the rest of the country struggles with unstable economic times and a housing crisis, the Wine Country seems to remain unscathed, at least to the visitor. Sure, you can scoop up a house in downtown Napa at a fraction of the cost of previous years, but the multimillion-dollar homes are still as hot as ever, as are the upscale restaurants, luxury hotels, and reservations-only wineries.

Perhaps the only thing that has recently cast a cloud over the sunny skies of grape-draped wine country was the May 16, 2008, passing of Robert Mondavi, the winemaker marketing genius widely known for putting California wine on the global wine map. Still, the party goes on, just as he would have wished.

So what new finds can you expect from a visit to Napa or Sonoma? Plenty.

Downtown Napa continues to expand, with a gorgeous new riverfront walk, hotels and businesses going up faster than you can say "Pass the chardonnay," and ongoing gentrification, which shows itself in the likes of the valley's first Whole Foods Market and confirmed plans for a Ritz-Carlton to be constructed near Copia.

For the visitor, the city's most exciting addition is Oxbow Market (www.oxbowpublicmarket.com), a co-op market hall that opened at the end of 2007. You'll find artisan and gourmet everything, from ready-made sandwiches and charcuterie to kitchen antiques and gifts.

At the other end of the valley to the north, visitors can get a taste of medieval Europe with a visit to Castello di Amorosa (tel. 707-942-8200 or 707-286-7273), a 121,000-square-foot castle and winery, complete with dungeon and torture chamber.

Not new to the state but new to this book is a section dedicated to Northern Sonoma. An exceptional alternative to bustling and commercial Napa and sleepy and spread-out Sonoma Valley, this expansive region is centered on its historic town of Healdsburg, which combines exceptional accommodations, dining, shopping, world-class winery exploration, and family activities with casual country living and old-fashioned hospitality.

Los Angeles -- Los Angeles and Madonna have a lot in common: They're always one step ahead of the trends. Trying to keep up with the constant changes in this amorphous metropolis is a full-time job, because what was "in" last year is probably "out" this year. Here's a short-list of what's new in L.A. that's worth checking out (or checking into).

If you haven't already made a hotel reservation, I've got some great recommendations for you. If you want to be entrenched in the Hollywood scene, you have to stay at the Roosevelt Hotel, Hollywood (tel. 800/950-7667; www.hollywoodroosevelt.com). The hotel just completed a $30-million renovation and is now the place to stay and play in the city. Hanging out by the pool while being served cocktails by model/actresses is a the classic L.A. experience. Also playing into the narcissistic Hollywood theme is the swanky new Hotel Palomar Los Angeles (tel. 800/472-8556; www.hotelpalomar-lawestwood.com), where the modus operandi is to treat each guest like a celebrity V.I.P. by offering such perks as personal trainers and 24-hour in-room yoga and Pilates on your flatscreen TV.

If you'd rather stay near the beach, I have two new insider tips for you: the Marina del Rey Marriott (tel. 800/228-9290; www.marriott.com) and the Best Western Marina Pacific Hotel & Suites (tel. 800/786-7789; www.mphotel.com). Yes, two chain hotels, but this is L.A., where nothing is quite as it seems. At the Marriott, for example, a subtle aromatherapy mixture called Zanzibar Mist and a soundtrack of ambient world beats circulates throughout the lobby, and its outdoor lounge is ranked as one of the top hotel lounges in the country by Playboy magazine. The newly renovated Best Western, meanwhile, has a groovy rock-'n'-roll theme, great rates, and ocean-view rooms, and it's within easy walking distance of Venice Beach.

Then again, if all you want is a really nice room at a reasonable rate without any mist or models, the newly renovated boutique-style Elan Hotel (tel. 323/658-6663; www.elanhotel.com) is my top choice. They did a fantastic job with the decor, the staff is wonderful, and the central location makes driving around the city very convenient.

As for what's going on in L.A., the big news this year is the opening of L.A. LIVE (tel. 866/548-3452; www.lalive.com) in downtown Los Angeles, a $2.5-billion mega-entertainment complex that's being optimistically hailed as Times Square West ("You, sir, are no Times Square"). Anchored by the Nokia Theatre and Staples Arena, the 6-square-block complex is crammed with restaurants, clubs, luxury condos, two hotels, a movie theater, and even a bowling alley. It's all part of the city's pricey push to revitalize the downtown area and increase convention business.

At the Los Angeles Zoo (tel. 323/644-4200; www.lazoo.org), they've finally completed the new $19-million Campo Gorilla Reserve, a habitat for six African lowland gorillas that's designed to resemble their native West African homeland. Visitors walk along a misty, forested pathway that has glass observation areas for close-up views of the gorillas. Over at the wonderful Natural History Museum (tel. 213/763-DINO; www.nhm.org), the inspiring new Thomas the T. rex Lab is ready for budding paleontologists. It's a specially designed workroom where visitors can watch genuine paleontologists as they prepare and assemble the fossils of a 66-million-year-old Tyrannosaurus rex nicknamed "Thomas." It one of many interactive exhibits that kids will find really cool.

The city has added some introspective attractions as well this year. At the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (tel. 323/857-6000; www.lacma.org), the highly anticipated Broad Contemporary Art Museum (aka BCAM) has finally opened. The $56-million, three-story museum is one of the largest column-free art spaces in the U.S., hosting opening installations by such artists as Richard Serra, Andy Warhol, and Roy Lichtenstein. And at the Huntington Library, Art Collections & Botanical Gardens (tel. 626/405-2100; www.huntington.org), they've added a new Chinese Garden that is the largest classical garden outside mainland China and landscaped with 12 acres of plants native to China.

In the world of fine dining in L.A., the big news this year is the opening of Katsuya Hollywood (tel. 323/871-8777; www.sbe.com/katsuya), a collaboration between designer Philippe Starck and Master Sushi Chef Katsuya Uechi. If you want to spot celebrities on your vacation, it's a good place to start (assuming you can get a reservation). But if you're more into food than famous people, my top two picks this year are Osteria Mozza (tel. 323/297-0100; www.mozza-la.com) and Fraîche (tel. 310/839-680; www.fraicherestaurantla.com). The former is my new favorite restaurant in the city, and the latter is one of the most popular new restaurants in town (and deservedly so).

If you're more into value with a side of kitsch, I highly recommend Luckyfish (tel. 310/274-9800; www.luckyfishsushi.com), in Beverly Hills, and the Waffle (tel. 323/465-6901; www.thewaffle.us), in Hollywood. Luckyfish is a lively sushi restaurant that uses an ultramodern conveyer belt system to deliver mini-plates of fresh fish, while the Waffle is a modern take on a diner classic, serving cornmeal jalapeño waffles and maple syrup martinis to a hip crowd.

The irony of new nightclubs in L.A. is that you can't get in the ones everyone talks about. If you're under 30 and have the look, you probably won't have any problem getting into some of the newer clubs I added to this edition, such as Green Door (tel. 323/463-0008), in Hollywood, or Winston's (tel. 323/654-0105), in West Hollywood. Of course, you'll need the address because they don't have signage.

But if standing in line so a bouncer can determine your eligibility isn't your idea of a fun night out, here are a few hip alternatives that still provide that only-in-L.A. experience: The new Bar Nineteen12 (tel. 310/273-1912; www.barnineteen12.com), within the Beverly Hill Hotel, doubles as a good excuse to check out the legendary hotel and an easy way to spot celebrities; Nic's Beverly Hills (tel. 310/550-5707; www.nicsbeverlyhills.com) serves the city's best martinis in a lively, snob-free setting, despite its location; and Glow (tel. 310/578-4152; www.glow-bar.com) at the Marriott in Marina Del Rey is the sexiest hotel lounge I've ever seen. All three are good bets for a fun night in L.A.

The Central & Southern Coast -- It's been a toasty summer season in Big Sur with all the wildfires burning along the Central Coast, but as far as we know, not a single tourist destination has been scorched; and by the time you read this Big Sur will be fully back in business. The blaze near Big Sur is one of more than 1,100 wildfires -- most ignited by lightning -- that have scorched 680 square miles and destroyed dozens of homes and buildings across Northern and Central California.

Eager for business are coastal hotels and restaurants, including newcomers to the California guidebook such as the Monterey Bay Inn (tel. 800/424-6242), where the sound of the waves lapping at your guest room is the perfect wake-up call; Paradiso Trattoria (tel. 831/375-4155), a waterfront restaurant offering spectacular sunset views; and the local favorite Walnut Avenue Café (tel. 831/457-2307), serving the best breakfasts in Santa Cruz.

A bit farther south in San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara, we've uncovered a few more lodging and dining gems: the Canary Hotel (tel. 805/884-0300), one of the finest new hotels on the coast, with beautiful Moroccan and Spanish details; the Tupelo Junction Café (tel. 805/899-3100), beloved by locals for its pumpkin oatmeal waffles with candied walnuts and caramelized bananas; and the hugely popular Palazzio (tel. 805/564-1985), where piled-high pasta dishes easily feed two, and garlic prevails.

The Aqua Caliente Casino (tel. 866/923-7244; www.hotwatercasino.com) in Rancho Mirage has added a new 340-room hotel with a 10,000-square-foot spa, three restaurants, and a 2,000-seat showroom.

The newest addition to fine dining in Palm Springs is the Purple Palm, located in the newly refurbished Colony Palms Hotel on North Indian Canyon Drive (tel. 800/557-2187; www.colonypalmshotel.com).

San Diego -- Southern California made international headlines in October 2007 when firestorms swept through the region, from Santa Barbara to the Mexican border. In San Diego, more than a half-million residents were displaced from their homes in the largest evacuation in state history; the blazes charred more than 300,000 acres and consumed some 1,700 homes and buildings. Most tragically, 10 lives were lost in San Diego. The conflagrations took place mostly in rural areas and bedroom communities, so the city's tourism infrastructure remained unaffected.

In a major governmental development, the City Council has banned drinking from all 17 miles of San Diego's beaches, as well as coastal parks and bay shores. This is a 1-year trial ban that will be in effect until January 2009. Check for posted signage after that date as to whether the prohibition is still in effect; fines run up to $250.

The newest hotel in San Diego's North County is the Sheraton Carlsbad Resort & Spa (tel. 760-827-2400; www.sheratoncarlsbad.com). Near LEGOLAND and a new golf course?the Crossings at Carlsbad (tel. 760/444-1800; www.thecrossingsatcarlsbad.com)?the Sheraton Carlsbad is designed to appeal to families and business travelers alike. Boasting ocean and fairway views, it currently has 129 rooms, but will expand to 350 by 2010.

The Hyatt Regency Mission Bay Spa and Marina (tel. 619/224-1234; www.missionbay.hyatt.com) has unveiled its new Blue Marble Spa, part of the property's $65-million sprucing up. Utilizing organic products, low-flow shower heads, and other ecofriendly concepts, Blue Marble strives to be as green as possible within its 11 treatment rooms, which include five private outdoor cabanas.

You can take a culinary tour of the Caribbean at Mangu (tel. 619/269-3149; www.mangusd.com) without leaving the Gaslamp Quarter. Serving lunch and dinner, as well as lots of rum drinks until the wee hours, Mangu takes a pan-island approach, with a menu that incorporates the tastes of Cuba, Puerto Rico, Jamaica, and the Dominican Republic -- all with a helping of Miami South Beach glitz on the side.

The Gaslamp has also welcomed a "chic Greek" restaurant, EXY (tel. 619/238-0412; www.exysandiego.com). Look for something far more creative and sophisticated than gyros -- the executive chef is a veteran of several cosmopolitan eateries in San Francisco.

The Hotel del Coronado's ENO (tel. 619/435-6611; www.hoteldel.com) has nothing to do with the electronic music pioneer and everything to do with wine. One of the final touches of the Del's $150-million renovation, this indoor/outdoor wine-tasting spot offers 500 wines, 35 international cheeses, and sweets created by local chocolatiers.

Burgeoning North Park adds yet another worthy entry to its growing list of high-caliber restaurants. Urban Solace (tel. 619/295-6464; www.urbansolace.net) provides just that, serving contemporary comfort food such as lamb meatloaf (with figs, pine nuts, and feta cheese) and cider-and-molasses glazed free-range chicken. They host a live bluegrass Sunday brunch, too.

Old Town's Jolly Boy Saloon and Restaurant (tel. 619/297-3100; www.jollyboyrestaurant.com) has reemerged after an 8-month renovation. Not really such a long time to be closed, considering this historic structure dates back to 1854, when the original Jolly Boy opened. Set within Old Town State Historic Park, the Jolly Boy will feature costumed performers to go along with the meat and seafood menu.

Whether you bowl passionately or ironically, East Village Tavern & Bowl (tel. 619/677-2659; www.bowlevt.com) can make room for you -- especially now that it's already expanding. Featuring a logo of skull and crossbones, this hipster haven opened in late 2007 with six lanes and is now doubling that amount. Adjacent to the Gaslamp Quarter, the Tavern & Bowl also has food, good beer on tap, and ubiquitous flatscreen TVs.

San Diego's latest nightspot gem is the Jade Theater (tel. 619/814-5125; www.jadetheater.com). This 14,000-square-foot, tri-level space not only serves imaginative Asian fare (acorn curry soup, crab kim chi), but is also a sexy lounge and club. Modernists will love the sleek, minimalist design.