Driving the California Desert in 1 Week

The California desert encompasses distinct arid regions: Death Valley's low desert, with its infernal heat; the Mojave's high desert, with its ghost towns and mines; vast Anza-Borrego, the biggest state park in California, with 600,000 acres of cactus and canyons near Mexico; and Joshua Tree National Park.

And then there's "The Desert." Palm Springs and vicinity is the civilized desert -- where celebrities pay big money to desiccate, and where more than 10,000 swimming pools and countless lawn sprinklers, water slides, and misting outdoor air-conditioners work to provide a little moisture for everyone else.

A lazy loop around the region takes about a week. Winter is the best time to explore California's desert country, when days are balmy and nights are cool. The heat is bearable in early spring and late autumn as well. Summer in the low desert, however, is for mad dogs and Englishmen (as well as the many Germans, Swiss, and Japanese travelers who inexplicably gravitate to Death Valley in Aug, when the temperature can top 115°F/46°C).

Day 1: Baker & Death Valley

The loop begins in Los Angeles, heading east on I-10 to I-15, en route to Baker. If you begin in San Diego, head north on I-15 to Baker. From Pasadena, you can take legendary Route 66 to I-15 (which can add a couple of hours to your trip). In Baker, 113 miles from L.A., stay at the Bun Boy Motel, next to the world's largest thermometer, then get an early start into Death Valley. Check out the Mad Greek for falafel with tahini or gyros cooked by Mexicans.

If you want to press on to Death Valley, 116 miles away, head up Highway 127 to Tecopa Hot Springs. Top off your gas tank here; prices will seem high, but in the valley they're worse. The most scenic entrance to the valley is via Highway 178, 1 mile north of Tecopa (marked TO BADWATER AND DEATH VALLEY). The faster route is Highway 190, which brings you into Death Valley Center.

If you're in an RV, you're in luck; the area has nine campgrounds. If you're traveling by car, consider the Furnace Creek Inn, an oasis in the desert with red-tiled roofs and a mineral-fed swimming pool, or the less expensive Furnace Creek Ranch. Stovepipe Wells Village and Panamint Springs Resort are other options. Reservations are imperative; in the winter, rooms sell out well in advance.

Day 2: Desert Culture & Canyons

Use the day to explore sites in the valley, such as Harmony Borax Works, Badwater at 282 feet below sea level, Zabriskie Point at sunrise, and Dante's View for an overview of the desert. Drive through the 9-mile loop of Artists Drive (RVs prohibited) and head north to Scotty's Castle & the Gas House Museum for a 1-hour tour. Biking and hiking trails afford a variety of terrain, from the 14-mile Telescope Peak Trail to the 2.5-mile trek into Mosaic Canyon near Stovepipe Wells.

Day 3: Mojave & the Kelso Dunes

This is a touring day, from Death Valley into the Mojave desert. Take Highway 190 back to Tecopa Hot Springs and go left into Tecopa. Head southeast on the back road through the Kingston range and bear right at the fork to head south to Valley Wells and I-15. Continue past the freeway on the Cima road to Cima, center of the largest, densest Joshua tree forest. You will soon reach Kelso Depot, where you can get information from the new Visitors Center (tel. 760/733-4456). Then you can explore the Kelso Dunes -- a 45-square-mile formation of sculptured sand that reverberates, or "booms," every time a person steps on it. Heading south out of Kelso, continue past I-40 and turn right to Amboy. The road south out of Amboy goes through Bristol Dry Lake and swings around to Twentynine Palms. Stay at the 29 Palms Inn and visit Western-style Pappy and Harriet's Pioneertown Palace (tel. 760/365-5956) for steaks and honky-tonk entertainment.

Day 4: Joshua Tree & Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge

Twentynine Palms is at the northern entrance into Joshua Tree National Park. The park headquarters has maps and information about hiking and rock climbing. Continue on the road through the park past Jumbo Rocks (which captures the essence of the park), the Cholla Cactus Garden, and through the Pinto Basin to Cottonwood Springs. Exit at I-10. Just east of this junction, George S. Patton Memorial Museum (tel. 760/227-3483), on the site of a World War II desert training center, has a great collection of war memorabilia, open daily 9:30am to 4:30pm.

Backtrack to the junction of I-10 and the Joshua Tree road, exit, go southwest through Mecca, and take Highway 195 to U.S. 86 south. Within a few miles, you will reach the Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge (tel. 760/348-5278), rich with Canada geese, snowy egrets, snow geese, and pelicans. You will have to leave the main road, at one of the numerous turnoffs, to visit the nearby lake. Midway along the lake, turn right onto County Road S22 into Borrego Springs and the Anza-Borrego State Park. Book a room at La Casa del Zorro Desert Resort or The Palms at Indian Head .

Day 5: Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

Hop to the Red Ocotillo for an old-fashioned, hearty breakfast. If you plan to hike, stop at the Borrego Springs Chamber of Commerce, a block from the restaurant, for information about the area. Then head for the Visitors Center on County Road S22. There, you can find maps for trails, including a 1.5-mile path that leaves from the nearby campground and winds through a palm oasis. Be sure to carry a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water.

Day 6: Palm Springs

Return to U.S. 68 and head north to Indio and Palm Springs. Running along Highway 111 for miles, this group of small communities (La Quinta, Indian Wells, Palm Desert, Cathedral City, Rancho Mirage, and Palm Springs) has grown into a metropolis of golf courses, high-rise resorts, elite hideaways, and small motels. By day, play golf, relax in the pool, or visit nearby attractions. After dark, take in the nightlife.

Day 7: The Journey Home

Relax in the morning then head to I-10 for the 2-hour return drive to L.A.