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Frommer's Favorite Experiences

  • Walking through Naples's Historic District: Maybe it is a bit defiant, given all the negative press about garbage and mafia here, but we find it exhilarating to be able to enjoy Naples's stunning art after it was literally hidden in grime for decades. Its collection of exquisite frescoes, paintings, and sculptures are now available to visitors at its numerous monasteries, palaces, churches, and museums. Kings and noble families have lavished art on the city as nowhere else in Italy except Rome, making Naples a competitor with Florence and Venice. A key stop for art lovers during the Grand Tour, Naples was later forgotten due to the complete abandonment of its monuments. But thanks to sustained efforts over the past 15 years, Naples is again experiencing a tourism boom.
  • Exploring Capri: This renowned island remains a magical destination, in spite of the crowds of tourists that flock to its shores. Of course, for the best experience, come early in the season and plan to stay overnight.
  • Arriving in Naples by Boat: You don't have to book a transatlantic cruise to have this marvelous experience. While arriving in Naples by car can be nerve-racking, confusing, and hot, with most landmarks annoyingly out of view, gliding into the Bay, with a sea breeze behind you and the city spread out ahead of you, can be magnificent. The majestic and somewhat ominous presence of Mount Vesuvius looming over the Bay makes it that much more dramatic. You can arrive by regular ferry from one of the islands or even from one of the other harbors in Campania, such as Salerno or Sorrento. We highly recommend arriving during the very early morning or in the evening, when the sun is sinking below the horizon, bathing the city in gold and orange; this is when the view is most magical. Upon soaking in the sight, you'll instantly understand the motivation behind the old saying, "See Naples and die."
  • Hiking the Ancient Paths of the Amalfi Coast: Taking a stroll on one of the Amalfi Coast's footpaths -- once the only means of communication between the region's towns -- is the best way to soak in the intensity of this amazing seascape. No matter your level of fitness, you'll find a stretch of path that's right for you. The region's main road -- the famed Amalfi Drive -- was built in 1840 and made the area more accessible, perhaps too much so. The old trails, on the other hand, are unique, and lead you through the Amalfi Coast missed by so many tourists. Trails come in all levels of difficulty, from flat stretches (such as the footpath from Amalfi to Atrani) to downhill ones (such as the footpath from Ravello to Minori) to more demanding ones (such as the Sentiero degli Dei and the Via degli Incanti from Positano).
  • Exploring Greek Ruins in Paestum: The first colony the Greeks established in Italy was Cuma, near Pozzuoli. From there, they expanded south to the rest of the Campanian coast. The heritage they left in Campania is immense -- rivaled in Italy only by Sicily -- and in a state of conservation seen only in Greece itself. This is Magna Grecia, where ancient Greece first spread its influence into Italy, setting the stage for what we call Western culture. In these temples and towns, you literally get the chance to walk in the footsteps of Plato and Aristotle's contemporaries.
  • Eating the Best Pizza: Pizza was invented here, in the narrow lanes of Naples's historic district, and for Neapolitans, their pizza is the only "real" one, thick crusted and fragrant. Whether you prefer a simple pizza joint or an elaborate restaurant, you'll share the pride Neapolitans feel for their invention, now taken over by the whole planet. The decor may be simple and traditional (sometimes nonexistent), and, in the most authentic restaurants, you'll have a modest choice of toppings -- only two at Da Michele, reputed to make the best pizza in Naples. Yet whichever place you choose, the outcome will be tasty, satisfying, and distinctive, because in Naples, no two pizzas are alike.
  • Shopping in Positano: The best exclusive shopping in the region can be found at this trendy resort, which stocks treasure troves of unique, handmade clothes and shoes. You can still find tailors and cobblers who will make you garments or sandals on the spot, while you wait -- or, even better, while you go for a swim.
  • Wandering Through Ancient Roman Lanes in Pompeii: Walking among ancient ruins is romantic and sad, and even a little creepy at times. Campania affords you many opportunities to live this unique experience. Of all the sites in the region, Pompeii and Herculaneum are justly famous: Walking their streets gives you a particularly eerie feeling. At the center of the lanes' mesmeric attraction is the knowledge that their violent destruction and miraculous preservation both happened on one terrible day nearly 2,000 years ago. And somehow it feels as if it is always that day here. Imagination easily bridges the gap to the time when these rooms resounded with talk and laughter (or, for more morbid minds, screams and cries of terror). Yet the best sites in the region might be some of the lesser known, such as the magnificent Villa di Poppea, in Oplontis, with its wonderful frescoes; the Villa Arianna and the Villa di San Marco, in Castellammare di Stabia; and the Villa Romana of Minori.
  • Listening to a Concert in a Medieval Cloister: The unique blend of cultures operating in Campania gave birth to some of the most splendid medieval cloisters ever built. Intertwined arches of Sicilian-Norman architecture are used here to support the loggias of delightful inner gardens, where the sun, more often than not, is shining on fruit-laden citrus trees and ancient stone and tile work. During the summer, music festivals are held in most coastal towns to take advantage of these magical spaces. The best of these medieval marvels are the Chiostro del Paradiso in Amalfi, the Villa Rufolo cloister in Ravello, and the cloister of San Francesco in Sorrento.

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    Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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