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Modeled on the converted dock-warehouse restaurants in the famous Argentine port city, this is arguably the best of Cancún’s many fine steakhouses. Poised at the edge of Nichupté Lagoon, its exposed brick and dark woods evoke the real thing while remaining contemporary and very urban. The extensive selection of beef is not Argentine but still prime, including American Wagyu (at a price). Dhetails such as fresh bread served in leather baskets make it a memorable meal. Beef shares the spotlight with seafood, such as exceptional grilled Gulf of Mexico octopus seared in olive oil, and a small but inventive choice of pasta dishes. It may be sacrilegious to say so, but the appetizers and sides are some of the tastiest items; I could make a meal of the crispy empanadas with chimichurri dip, halibut casserole, soufflé potatoes, and creamed spinach with artichokes. The patio over the water, beyond the glass dining-room wall, is quieter than the bustling dining room, and smoking is allowed.

-Christine Delsol