Tracing the coast north from Candi Dasa, travelers have the chance to see volcanoes to the left and stunning coast to the right. The fishing village of Amed, about 2 hours north of Candi Dasa, is popular for snorkeling and diving. You can come on a day trip from Candi Dasa or even Ubud (it's easy to arrange land transport), though you might want to spend the night. Lodging options are limited to either losmen or the very posh Hotel Indra Udhyana (tel. 361/241107; www.indo.com/hotels/indra-udhyana). A good beachside budget choice is Amed Café (tel. 363/23473; www.amedcafe.com), with rooms as low as US$10 (£5.50).
Some 4 hours of driving north and west along the coast brings you to Lovina. Famous for the schools of dolphins swimming just offshore, Lovina is a collection of bungalows and hotels on a quiet stretch of beach far from the madding crowd. Damai Lovina Hotel, Jalan Damai, Kayuputih (tel. 362/41008; www.damai.com) has over-the-top luxury rooms overlooking town (from US$250/£138). Puri Bagus Lovina (tel. 362/21430; www.puri-bagus.com) offers less pricey luxury, with beachside rooms starting at US$100 (£55). Budget accommodations are wall-to-wall along the beaches in Lovina. All accept cash only and cost between Rp80,000 and Rp150,000 (US$8.80-US$16/£4.90-£9.15). Check out Angsoka, Jalan Bina Ria, Lovina Beach (tel. 362/41841; www.angoka.com), a clean, comfortable choice with a pool; some rooms have air-conditioning.
Further west of Lovina is the small village of Pemuteran, a quiet spot with a small cluster of beachside resorts. Pemuteran is a great base for diving and snorkeling trips to Menjangan, a small island bordering northwestern Bali. Try Reef Seen Aquatics (tel. 362/92339; www.reefseen.com) for snorkeling and diving. The dive center has a turtle hatchery and reef gardening project, plus basic but nicely appointed rooms around US$40 (£22). The best of Pemuteran's resorts is the Matahari Beach Resort & Spa [ST] (tel. 362/92312; www.matahari-beach-resort.com), with rooms ranging between US$186 and US$466 (£102-£256). Owned by a German butcher, the property features fantastic service, a world-class beachside restaurant, and a beautiful full-service spa. Just west of Matahari is the Taman Selini Resort (tel. 362/94746; www.tamanselini.com), with a good Greek restaurant.
Lombok, a smaller island off the east coast of Bali, is a flight into the rugged landscape of unspoiled Indonesia. With a dry climate that's dominated by central volcanic peaks, Lombok is a predominantly Muslim island that attracts travelers hoping to get off the beaten track. Tourism infrastructure is limited, but beaches are unspoiled; this is also a popular base for diving and trips to the outlying Gili Islands. With the recent drop in tourism, high-speed boats no longer connect, but there is a daily ferry from Padang Bai, just south of Candi Dasa (trip time: 5 hr.). Merpati (tel. 361/235358 in Bali, or 370/636745 in Lombok) flies several times daily from Bali to Lombok's Selaparang Airport (20 min.; approximately US$30/£17). From there, connect to your destination by cab. The top choice for accommodations is the self-contained, luxurious Oberoi Lombok, cousin of the popular Kuta resort (Medana Beach, Tanjung, West Lombok; tel. 370/638444; www.oberoihotels.com), located on the far north of the island. Lombok's Sengigi Beach is dotted with budget accommodations as well.
