Restaurants

For centuries, Cape Town has set the table for a varied and increasingly discerning public, who have raved about its world-class fare, augmented by historical venues and great views. For harbor settings and Table Mountain views, head for the Waterfront; for uninterrupted ocean views and great sunsets, the Atlantic seaboard is tops. But whatever you do, enjoy at least one lunch or dinner in the Winelands, where you can drink in views of the vineyards and mountains along with a selection of fine Cape wines. For people-watching, head for the cobbled Cape Quarter in De Waterkant or the cafes and coffee shops of Kloof Street (particularly at Vida e Caffé and Manna), or just sink into a sofa for high tea at the Mount Nelson. If you like to window-shop for your dinner, take a stroll along Victoria Road in Camps Bay, the restaurant strip that lines the beachfront -- a great place to dine in summer, when the sun sets around 8 or 9pm, but a little brash and overheated for my taste; I'd head back over the Nek to Kloof Street, the road that runs down the slope of Table Mountain into Long Street, or settle on one of the recommendations listed.

If you're setting off for Cape Point, a journey that will take you the better part of the day, try to time lunch at one of the recommended restaurants in the Constantia area, among the vineyards, or one overlooking the False Bay coast.

Finally, make sure to sample at least one dish inspired by the unique hybrid of Cape cultures. For traditional fare, you can't get more authentic than Biesmiellah in the Bo-Kaap, but there's more to Cape cuisine than bobotie and denningvleis. Cape Town's scenic setting and regular influx of cosmopolitan visitors has attracted some of the world's top chefs, many of whom are creating a new and exciting "modern Cape" cuisine, combining local ingredients with elements of the Portuguese, Dutch, French, German, English, Indian, and Malaysian influences that have made up the city's multicultural past. Bon appetit.

Tip: Serious foodies might want to pick up a copy of Rossouw's Restaurants, an annual guide to Cape Town and Winelands restaurants, featuring the opinions of patrons rather than critics. If you don't agree with a write-up, you can join the team and send in your own comments at www.rossouwsrestaurants.com.

Eating In -- If you're self-catering, contact Mr Delivery (tel. 021/423-4177 in City Bowl; tel. 021/439-9916 in Sea Point; tel. 021/761-0040 in Constantia) and ask them to drop off a menu. Mr Delivery delivers meals from more than 20 restaurants and takeout joints, as well as groceries, directly to your door.

Dinner in Bed, the City at Your Feet -- Catch the lift to the top floor of the ABSA building in downtown Cape Town and your waiter will show you to your very own "bed," an elevated platform "booth" that's curtained off from the rest of the patrons, with a sheer sheet of glass on one end and the twinkling lights of the city beckoning far below. Done in plush red and gold, with plenty of mirrors, the booths at Antique, 2 Riebeeck St. (tel. 021/419-0672), will make you feel like misbehaving, and many of the city set who frequent the place do. The food is nothing to write home about, but that doesn't mean you won't have a truly memorable evening -- right next door is the club Hemisphere, where you can let off some more steam. Tip: If you want a booth rather than a run-of-the-mill central table, book ahead.

High Tea at the Nellie -- High tea at the Mount Nelson (tel. 021/483-1850; R135/$19/£10; daily 2:30-5:30pm) is a Cape Town institution: crustless cucumber and salmon sandwiches and a vast sea of tarts, cakes, and fresh berries, served buffet style in an elegant chandeliered room dotted with comfortable armchairs to sink into while you hum to the sounds of a tinkling piano (or escape to the verdant shady gardens). It's a wonderful way to experience the grande dame's gracious ambience and watch those who frequent her.

Vegetarian? -- This is a carnivorous country (you'll still hear the joke that chicken is served as a side order to red meat in some rural areas), but thankfully, vegetarian Capetonians are blessed with Lola's, 228 Long St. (tel. 021/423-0885). It's a buzzing pavement cafe that serves vegetarian-only meals to a funky young crowd. Portabello, situated farther up Long Street, is a more wholesome version of Lola's, with a daily buffet that would make even a lion's mouth water. Many of the ingredients are homegrown by the cool couple who own it. Alternatively there's Kauai, an ever-growing health-food chain (for venues, see www.kauai.co.za; the most convenient location may be the one at Kloof St. and Waterfront), which serves a good selection of vegetarian dishes (every meal has a nutritional breakdown) as well as plenty of health drinks.

Picnic Fare -- Table Mountain is one big garden, and its "tabletop" makes a great picnic venue, as do the slopes -- particularly at Kirstenbosch Gardens, where sunset concerts are held every Sunday from December to March. You can put together a picnic at the self-service restaurant near the main entrance, but the food is mass-produced. For a real feast, take your pick at Melissa's, Kloof St. (tel. 021/424-5540; or see www.melissas.co.za for the closest outlet to you), Giovanni's, 103 Main Rd., Green Point (tel. 021/434-6893), or Andiamo at Cape Quarter, De Waterkant (tel. 021/421-3687). The latter two are Italian delis with mouthwatering prepared meals and sandwiches. To picnic on one of Cape Point's deserted beaches, check out the fare at Kalk Bay's Olympia Café (tel. 021/788-6396) on the way there. Or order a picnic hamper from the Picnic Company to be delivered to your door (tel. 021/706-8470; www.lauren@picnics.co.za; R55-R165/$8-$23/£4-£12 per person depending on your choices, plus R100/$14/£7 delivery to city center).

Great Winelands options are Le Pique Nique (tel. 021/870-4274), at the gorgeous Boschendal Estate, where you can buy a hamper filled with local delicacies and spread out on their oak-shaded lawns -- it's pretty popular, so book in advance. Jonkershuis at Groot Constantia offers a similar service.