Neighborhoods in Brief

City Layout

Cape Town lies on a narrow peninsula that curls southward into the Atlantic Ocean. Its western and eastern shores are divided by a spinal ridge of mountains, of which Table Mountain is the most dramatic landmark. The city center, located on the western shore, is known as the City Bowl, the "bowl" created by the table-topped massif as backdrop, flanked by jagged Devil's Peak to the east and the embracing arm of Signal Hill to the west. Upmarket residential suburbs range along these slopes (Tamboerskloof, Higgovale, Oranjezicht, and Gardens are where you'll find a plethora of lovely guesthouses), with views north overlooking the city center and harbor, where the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront is situated at the icy waters of Table Bay.

Within easy striking distance of the City Bowl and the Waterfront are the dense, built-up suburbs of tiny De Waterkant (arguably Cape Town's most fashionable suburb, and a must-see destination for shoppers who hate malls), the Victorian-era and soon to be soccer mecca of Green Point, where the proposed 2010 soccer stadium is being built, and high-density coastal suburb of Sea Point. North of Sea Point is Mouille Point, which runs into the V&A Waterfront. Moving farther south from Sea Point, the western slopes of the Cape Peninsula mountain range slide almost directly into the sea, and it is here, along the dramatic coastline referred to as the Atlantic seaboard, that you can watch the sun sinking from Africa's most expensive real estate. Of these, the beaches of Camps Bay and Clifton are the most conveniently located -- easily reached from the City Bowl via Kloof Nek, they are a mere 10- to 15-minute drive from the city center.

Traveling along the Atlantic seaboard is the most scenic route to Cape Point, but the quickest route is to travel south along the eastern flank of the mountain, via the M3, past the southern suburbs of Woodstock, Observatory, Rondebosch, Claremont, Wynberg, Kenilworth, Bishopscourt, and Constantia (the closest wine-producing area to the city, some 30 min. away, Constantia vies with the Atlantic seaboard as real-estate gold), and then snake along the False Bay seaboard to the point. These eastern slopes, which overlook False Bay (so called by early sailors who mistook it for Table Bay), are the first to see the sun rise, and have price tags still affordable for locals (though with the ongoing boom in property, even this ownership profile is changing).

East of the peninsula are the Cape Flats, where the majority of so-called "Cape coloureds" live, and the "black townships," including Gugulethu, Langa, Nyanga, and Khayalitsha -- proof that sadly, despite 12 years of democracy, an unenforced geographic apartheid still keeps the Cape's communities effectively separate. These are accessed via the N2, the same highway that provides access to the airport and the Winelands, which lie north of it. Stellenbosch, unofficial capital of the Winelands, is just over an hour's drive from the center of town, and from here the pretty winegrowing valley of Franschhoek, some 85km (53 miles) northeast of Cape Town, is reached via the scenic Helshoogte Pass. A quicker route to Franschhoek is via the northern-bound N1, the highway that connects Cape Town to Paarl, a 40-minute drive from the center of town.

Consider investing in a detailed street atlas like Mapstudios A-Z Streetmap, sold at most newsagents, but if you get lost, don't despair: With Table Mountain as a visual guide, it's difficult to stay lost for long.

The Neighborhoods in Brief

City Bowl Near the Waterfront, beaches, and Winelands, and in easy reach of most of the city's best restaurants, with great views, the residential suburbs that flank the bowl are the most convenient place to stay. Opt for one of the many elegant guesthouses on the mountain slopes of the upmarket suburbs of Oranjezicht, Higgovale, and Tamboerskloof, with excellent views of the city and harbor.

Victoria & Alfred Waterfront The Waterfront is one of the most successful in the world and one of Cape Town's top attractions. Hotels have glorious sea and mountain views, and many shopping, dining, and entertainment options are right at your doorstep, but you'll pay for the privilege of staying here (the cheap options aren't worth it), and it's a little out of touch with the rest of the city.

De Waterkant, Mouille Point, Green Point & Sea Point These border the Waterfront and are close to the city, with a number of value-for-money options. De Waterkant, in particular, is so close its accommodations are listed under "City Bowl;" the neighborhood has evolved into the city's most chichi shopping area, with cobbled streets and a gorgeous square (Cape Quarter) surrounded by restaurants. The Mouille Point and Sea Point beachfront has been largely ruined by the construction of dense high-rise apartments, and pockets along Sea Point's Main Road are hangouts for hookers and drug dealers. This area used to be the heart of Cape Town's nightlife and is experiencing a slow but sure comeback. You'll find a number of excellent restaurants on Main Road, but be careful after dark.

Atlantic Seaboard If you're looking for a beach holiday, stay on the Atlantic seaboard, where Table Mountain drops steeply into the ocean, creating a magnificent backdrop to the seaside "villages" of Bantry Bay, Clifton, Camps Bay, Bakoven, and Llandudno. Besides offering the most beautiful beaches (of which Camps Bay, lined with a string of restaurants and cocktail bars, is the most accessible), you'll find gorgeous people strutting their stuff on these pristine, fine white sands, and truly awesome sunsets.

Hout Bay Surrounded by mountains, this charming town has its own harbor and marks the start of breathtaking Chapman's Peak Drive, which snakes past the burgeoning suburbs of Noordhoek, Kommetjie, and Scarborough, before reaching the Cape Point Nature Reserve. Close to the shore, these seaside towns retain a villagelike feel, but development has spawned huge housing developments. Plus, they are a little far from the city's attractions and restaurants to be a good base.

False Bay Distance from city attractions is the drawback of the suburbs of (driving south to north) Simons Town, Fish Hoek, Kalk Bay, St James, and Muizenberg, but they are so charming that it's worth staying here, particularly if this is not your first visit to Cape Town. Kalk Bay in particular has a plethora of quaint restaurants and shopping options -- even a dinner theater. The sea is a few degrees warmer on this side of the mountain, and because this part of the coast faces east, dawn can be breathtaking, though obviously at the expense of sunsets.

Southern Suburbs The two worth highlighting are Observatory and Constantia. Observatory (less than 10 min. from town), with its quaint Victorian buildings and narrow streets, offers a number of good restaurants and shops, and is imbued with an interesting bohemian feel -- its proximity to both the University of Cape Town and the huge Groote Schuur hospital makes for a particularly eclectic mix of people. Farther south (about 20 min. from town), the oak-lined streets and old, established mansions of Constantia are arguably the city's most exclusive addresses, with the lush surrounds of the Cape's oldest wine-producing area attracting the rich and famous who prefer their privacy to the glare of the sun-soaked hoi polloi in Camps Bay.

Cape Flats This is where the majority of "coloureds" (the apartheid name for people of mixed descent) live, many forcibly relocated from District Six (a now-razed suburb adjacent to the city) by apartheid policies. The residents of the Cape Flats suffer from a high unemployment rate and lack of cohesive identity and hope, and the area has become a fertile breeding ground for drug-fueled gangster wars. Even farther east are the "black suburbs" (historically referred to as "townships") of Gugulethu, Langa, and Nyanga, and the vast shantytowns and new residences of Khayalitsha (visible from the N2 as you drive into town from the airport). To get a balanced view of Cape Town and a real insight into South Africa's history, a visit to these areas is highly recommended.

Winelands No trip to Cape Town would be complete without at least a day spent here; indeed, many prefer to stay here for the duration of their visit -- Cape Town lies no more than an hour or so away, the airport, 45 minutes. The university town of Stellenbosch is the cultural center of the Winelands, and its oak-lined streetscape offers the greatest sense of history; the wine produced by its terroir is also generally the best. However, Franschhoek -- reached via either Stellenbosch or Paarl -- is located in the prettiest of the wineland valleys, and is deservedly considered the Winelands' cuisine capital, with the highest concentration of award-winning restaurants in South Africa; if you overnight in only one wine-producing region, make sure it's Franschhoek. Deciding where to stay is ultimately a matter of availability; places situated on wine estates with views of the vineyards and mountains are most desirable. The town of Paarl is not as attractive, but the surroundings, on gracious wine farms and old estates, offer great accommodations options.

Northern Suburbs With their kitsch postmodern palaces and endless "first-home" developments, these suburbs don't really warrant much attention (though Lagoon Bay, a new hotel development in Milnerton with views of Table Mountain, may change this). However, if you're heading north to see the West Coast, you should consider stopping at Blouberg Beach for the classic postcard view of Table Mountain across the bay. To reach Blouberg Beach, take the R27 Marine Drive, off the N1.