Neighborhoods

City Bowl

For easy access to sights, top restaurants, and beaches, you can't beat the City Bowl, which here includes both the city center and the residential suburbs on the slopes of the mountain.

As the city center tries to reinvent itself as a residential entity, there are now a number of new places to stay, but you will forego a view. If you like intimate boutique-style hotels, the centrally located Cape Heritage Hotel (tel. 021/424-4646; www.capeheritage.co.za) on Heritage Square is my top pick. It is a gracious heritage hotel (the real McCoy -- take a look at its tasteful colonial-themed interiors) that provides immediate access to one of the city's best restaurants (Savoy Cabbage) and wine bars (Caveau). Rates start at R1,250 ($174/£89) for a standard (the best to book in this category is room no. 111), but it's worth upgrading to the more spacious (and better dressed) luxury category. A short walk north is the more modern Metropole, 38 Long St. (tel. 021/424-7247; www.metropolehotel.co.za; R1,190-R3,200/$193-$206/£99-£106 for a double, depending on season and room type), styled along the lines of a downtown New York boutique hotel, with a hip restaurant and a chic bar frequented by a primarily gay clientele. Or, if you want to be right in the center of bustling Long Street, with a plethora of bars and restaurants, take a look at Urban Chic, 172 Long St. (tel. 021/426-6119; www.urbanchic.co.za). If you book one of the top two corner superior rooms (no. 603 or 503; R1,650-R2,100/$22-$291/£117-£150 double), you can enjoy great views of Table Mountain from your bed. A block away is Daddy Long Legs (www.daddylonglegs.co.za), 134 Long St., a conceptual boho hotel that offers 13 small en-suite rooms decorated by 13 Capetonian artists -- rooms go for between R450 and R700 ($63-$97/£32-£50) per night. Book room "Open" or "Photobooth," which are the least intrusive. Alternatively, in the new Mandela Rhodes Place (http://mandelarhodesplace.co.za) you'll find apartments managed by Platinum Places (www.platinumplaces.co.za); the studios aren't bad at R865 to R1,750 ($120-$243/£62-£125), depending on the season, but it's very much a bleak apartment block (bounded by Wale, Church, and Burg streets and St Georges Mall). However, if you're traveling with friends, the two- and three-bedroom modern Towers penthouse apartments have incredible views and will make you feel like throwing a decadent party. During the winter they go for an unbelievable R1,300 ($181/£92); in summer you're looking at R4,700 ($653/£335) per day. A better value (minus the views) is the nearby Adderley Hotel (tel. 021/423-1426; www.relais.co.za), on Adderley Street. I really like this little hotel: Made up of three historical buildings, it has more character than the Mandela Rhodes apartments, the modern rooms are neat, and they offer free valet parking. The rates (R1,100/$153/£79 double) are negotiable, so call to discuss.

Slightly on the outskirts (a 10-min. walk to the center) but better situated for restaurants (it's right on the vibrant cafe-and-dining strip of Kloof St.), Hippo Hotel (tel. 021/423-2500; www.hippotique.co.za; R1,300/$181/£92 double) is not as self-conscious as the Metropole, and it offers better business facilities, including multimedia personal computers in every room as well as ADSL and DSTV and DVD players. Not much character, though.

Moving east, the Cape Town Hollow (tel. 021/423-1260; www.capetownhollow.co.za), at 88 Queen Victoria St., offers double rooms for a reasonable R990 to R1,060 ($117-$147/£60-£75), depending on the season. It has a pretty exterior, is popular with package tourists, and enjoys a great location (book a room overlooking the Company Gardens), but the decor is dull. Walking distance from the gardens is the eclectically furnished Dunkley House (tel. 021/462-7650; www.dunkleyhouse.com), at 3B Gordon St.; the best rooms are a tad pricier (R750-R1,250/$104-$173/£54-£89 double), but it has real character and a better pool.

These are the best city center options but given Cape Town's geography, my money remains on one of the options located in the residential suburbs that tumble down the mountain slopes, most with fabulous views of the "Bowl" -- of the accommodations listed, the Mount Nelson is still the classiest hotel option, and The Village Lodge, Four Rosmead, Cape Cadogan, and An African Villa share the honors for best guesthouse.

Moderate -- Cape Town has a few more guesthouses worth looking at in this price category, all of them in gorgeous historic homes located high up on the slopes of Oranjezicht, with great views of the city and harbor lights.

Cape Riviera (tel. 021/461-8535; www.caperiviera.co.za; R650-R1,750/$90-$243/£46-£125 double) is efficiently run and on one of the most beautiful streets in Cape Town, amidst grand turn-of-the-20th-century homes overlooking the Molteno reservoir. Rooms, furnished in dark wood and white, are somewhat stark (no art or personal touches) but equipped with all the comforts (air-conditioning, Internet connection, TV). It has two pools. The room to book is no. 1.

Rutland Lodge (tel. 021/461-7062; www.rutlandlodge.com; R1,300/$181/£92 double) is owner-run, which is potentially a little claustrophobic, but the three rooms on the top floor (each with semiprivate deck) have phenomenal views and are tastefully decorated with all the modcons. (Given that you pay the same for the two rooms downstairs, I would insist on one of these top rooms.) A large, lovely pool completes the picture. This is a good value.

De Tafelberg Guesthouse (tel. 021/424-9159; www.detafelberg.com; R990-R1,500/$138-$208/£70-£107 double) is another grand home with wonderful views from most of the rooms, as well as a great breakfast "room" -- a deep covered balcony overlooking the pool and with views of the city and harbor in the distance.

Inexpensive -- If you'd rather spend your money on restaurants or a high-end fling in a game reserve, take a look at the aforementioned Daddy Long Legs on bustling Long Street, or consider booking a private double room in one of the city's first-rate backpacker lodgings: The Backpack (tel. 021/423-4530; www.backpackers.co.za; R380-R470/$53-$65/£27-£34 for an en-suite room) is one of the oldest and most popular. It's clean and convivial, with a busy courtyard, cafe, bar, good travel center, shuttle bus, and pool, and an easy stroll from the nightlife and restaurant options along Kloof and Long streets (don't do this at night unless the streets are still busy, though).

Waterfront

Expensive -- An alternative to the Victoria & Alfred (but not as well situated) is the Commodore (tel. 021/415-1000; www.legacyhotels.co.za; high season from R2,400/$333/£171 double). Located 300m (984 ft.) from the Portswood entrance to the V&A Waterfront, the Commodore offers comfortable rooms at relatively low rates, making it popular with tour groups. Business-class rooms cost a negligible R255/$35/£18 more than standard rooms, but feature extras like minibars, are bigger, and have better views.

Green Point, Mouille Point & Sea Point

These suburbs virtually neighbor town and the Waterfront, but ironically (considering their location at the beginning of the Atlantic seaboard), the lay of the mountain makes access to beaches a little more time-consuming than from the City Bowl. That said, the area offers views of the sea and is a good value, particularly when compared with accommodations in the adjacent Waterfront. Plus, they will all be a stone's throw from the 2010 stadium. If neither of the below appeals, check out the delightful Cape Victoria Guest House (tel. 021/439-7721; www.capevictoria.co.za); rates are excellent value (R660-R850/$92/£47 with two large top rooms, with views, going for R1,350/$188/£96 in high season. The guesthouse, which when launched was featured in numerous design magazines, is run by excellent hostess Lily (whose talented architect son converted the building). She says that 2008 may see an increase in rates for the first time in 4 years, but by no more than 10% to 15%.

Atlantic Seaboard

For most visitors to the Cape, waking up to a seascape and strolling down to the beach take first prize, but you'll need to shell out for the privilege (and book early!) Camps Bay has by far the most ocean-facing options and offers the city's most easily accessible beach, lined with dozens of bars, coffee shops, and restaurants. It's also a mere 10-minute drive from the center of town. The area has numerous B&Bs (check out www.portfoliocollection.com), but be warned: Good taste and great location seem to enjoy an inverse relationship here, and you're really paying for the sea view. There are a few exceptions, of course, the most notable of which is gorgeous Atlantic House; also, newly opened Eleven Sedgemoor (tel. 021/438-7216; www.11sedgemoor.co.za; R2,000-4,000/$278-$556/£143-£286 double) has the additional advantage of being within walking distance of the beach and Camps Bay restaurants. Downstairs rooms are not private enough for me but the penthouse suite is superb. If you're on a budget, take a look at Camps Bay Beach Village (tel. 021/438-4972; www.villageandlife.com): Its studio apartments, built around a heated pool, are a great value at R660 to R1,155 ($92-$160/£47-£83) double. Neighboring Clifton is more secluded, but you're looking at climbing a lot of steps (the beach lies below relatively steep cliff paths) and, in summer, dealing with traffic and parking problems. It's the most beautiful bay in Cape Town but not the most convenient place to stay, and no doubt as a consequence has a dearth of guesthouses; here you're best off renting your own seaside beach bungalow and living like a local. Neighboring Bantry Bay has two excellent options.

Southern Suburbs

If the beach isn't your scene, and you prefer your landscapes with mountains and trees, you'll find blissful peace in Constantia, the wine-producing area closest to the city, some 20 to 30 minutes away (halfway between the city and Cape Point). A little closer to town is Bishops Court and Newlands; being home to landmark rugby games and the world's largest rugby museum, Newlands is ideal for fans of the game, but for the most part it is bland middle-class suburbia. It does have some large, gracious lodgings that may suit less adventuresome travelers who want to be pampered, notably The Vineyard Hotel, which opened a Banyan Tree spa in 2006. Take a look at the Vineyard Hotel's gorgeous Riverside Deluxe Suites (tel. 021/657-4500; www.vineyard.co.za; from R2,560/$356/£183 double). It's also worth browsing the guesthouses listed at www.thelastword.co.za: a collection of superluxurious guesthouses concentrated in the southern suburbs that offer comforting touches like chauffeurs and managers who administer advice and arrange tours.

False Bay

Even Capetonians look at this part of Cape Town as a totally different city experience and talk about moving here in the same dreamy tones as they would of moving "to the country." It's very laid-back, probably more suited to the older traveler or someone who's been to Cape Town before and fallen in love with the naval atmosphere and Victorian architecture of Simons Town, or the quaint fishing village atmosphere of Kalk Bay -- these are the two best suburbs in which to base yourself. Staying on this side of the mountain, you are well positioned for major attractions like the penguins at Boulders and Cape Point (some 10-20 min. away), but it's about 40 minutes from the city center. If Kalk Bay appeals to you (and it really is delightful, with a plethora of dining options and dinky antique shops, art galleries, and quirky clothing), the best accommodations options are in gracious, turn-of-the-20th-century mansions in neighboring St James: Rodwell House and The St James (www.thelastword.co.za; from R1,500/$208/£107 double) are both within walking distance of Kalk Bay's main drag. In Simons Town, families should consider the British Hotel Apartments (www.british-hotel.co.za; R300-R380/$42-$53/£21-£27 per person) -- lovely, large old-fashioned apartments in a Victorian-era hotel on the main road with sea views. Alternatively, there's Simons Town Quayside Lodge (tel. 021/786-3838; www.quayside.co.za; R880-R1,190/$122-$165/£63-£85 double, including breakfast), right on the water. This is part of the Simons Town Harbour development, with a number of shops and Bertha's Restaurant below. Most of the rooms, typical bland mass hotel but pleasant enough, have French doors opening onto beautiful views of the False Bay coast and Simons Town yacht basin. If you're looking for accommodations on the beach, take a look at Whale View Manor (tel. 021/786-3291; www.whaleviewmanor.co.za; from R790/$110/£56 double), just above a sandy crescent on the outskirts of Simons Town, or The Long Beach (www.thelongbeach.com; from R3,000/$417/£214 double), a luxury B&B villa with six shuttered suites leading onto the pristine white sands of Kommetjie beach.