Frommer's Review
This stylish restaurant celebrates the European trend towards "sophisticated peasant food," and if you enjoy the more interesting cuts of meat (like sweetbreads), you'll find this one of the country's best choices. Starters are particularly exciting, like the absolutely delicious (though unassuming sounding) signature tomato tart (summer only); the pear, plum, pepper cheese, and walnut salad; the sugar-cured springbok with soba noodles and mango relish; and the chicken liver mousse served with port soaked figs. Chef Peter Pankhurst changes the menu daily to make the best of what's available, but if you haven't yet tried Karoo lamb, his pecan-encrusted rack is the way to go. The venue -- a narrow double-volume L-shape with old brick walls exposed and juxtaposed with glass-and-steel fittings -- is as interesting as the food, though the opening of 95 Keerom has put this somewhat in the shade. The back entrance connects you to Heritage Square's central courtyard -- consider having an after-dinner drink upstairs at the Po-Na-Na Bar.
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