Planning a Trip

Getting There

The arrival of Nevsehir Airport cemented the town's image as the area's transportation hub; it's already the primary destination for buses traveling from other parts of the country. Unfortunately, in 2003, Turkish Airlines suspended all flights into Nevsehir. Because Nevsehir is a town with no discernible center -- or soul, for that matter -- I've decided not to cover it except when referring to getting in (by bus), getting out, or getting around Cappadocia.

By Plane -- Turkish Airlines currently has four flights daily from Istanbul (the least expensive flight, at 95YTL ($70), departs from Sabiha Gokcen Airport on the Asian side) to Kayseri, about 45 minutes by car from anywhere in Cappadocia. The German-based Onur Air (in Istanbul tel. 0212/663-9176, or local rep 0384/341-7130; www.onurair.com.tr) recently added domestic service within Turkey, flying to Kayseri daily from Istanbul.

Turkish Airlines has both an office in downtown Kayseri, at Sahabiye Mah. Yildirim Cad. 1 (tel. 0352/222-3858), and at Kayseri's Erkilet Airport (tel. 0352/338-3353). Within the Cappadocian triangle, the official representative for Turkish Airlines is Argeus, located at Istiklal Cad. 13, Ürgüp (tel. 0384/341-4688 or 0384/341-5207).

Many local tour operators will pick you up at the airport or bus station for much less than it would cost you to take a taxi. Argeus was the first in the region to provide transfers from both airports to anywhere in the Cappadocia region in their private minivans. The fare for the 97km (60-mile) trip (1 1/2 hr.) to/from Kayseri airport is only 9.50YTL ($7). Because of the reasonable amount of competition this presents to area taxi drivers, travelers arriving and hoping to "wing it" by jumping on the Argeus bandwagon may get some resistance from the locals. To avoid misunderstandings, travelers are encouraged to reserve space in advance with Argeus (tel. 0384/341-4688; fax 0384/341-4888; www.argeus.com.tr). Also be sure to check with your hotel first -- they may pick you up for free. There are no other options for transfers in and out of Kayseri.

By Train -- Of all the rail connections in the country, the one between Istanbul and Ankara is the most reliable for service and comfort. Trains depart Istanbul's Haydarpasa Station five times daily for Ankara. From there it's about a 4- to 5-hour drive to Cappadocia (6 hr. by long-distance bus).

By Bus -- All long-distance buses into Cappadocia arrive into Nevsehir, with either a quick drive-by of secondary towns or a free minibus transfer to your final destination. Through buses, like those heading to eastern Turkey, will dump you off on the side of the highway rather than make the detour into the otogar (bus station); insist on this basic service when you buy your ticket. As for bus companies, stick to the more dependable Göreme (tel. 0384/213-5537 in Nevsehir or 0384/341-2111 in Ürgüp), or Kapadokya (tel. 0384/214-0262 in Nevsehir or 0384/341-6233 in Ürgüp) bus lines. All have regular service to and from Istanbul and Ankara as well as frequent and reliable regional service.

By bus, expect around 4 to 5 hours from Konya, 2 hours from Kayseri, 5 to 6 hours from Ankara, and 12 hours from Istanbul. If you're headed to the Aegean Coast, you'll have to change buses in either Izmir (13 hr.) or Mugla (14 hr.); for the Mediterranean coast, you'll have to take a bus to either Antalya or Mugla, then change for minibus service to your final destination. (Certain destinations will require yet another change; for example, to Dalyan, you'll have to change in Ortaca for a dolmus (minivan-type public transportation) into the center of town.)

Getting Around

In most parts of Turkey, dolmuses are practical. In Cappadocia, service is infrequent and at best unreliable. A local dolmus follows a circuit hourly from Ürgüp bus station to Zelve, Avanos, Göreme, Üçhisar, and back; another service runs every 2 hours from Ürgüp to Avanos between 9am and 5pm.

Dolmuses also run to the smaller villages from select main towns, so while you can get direct service from Ürgüp to say, Mustafapasa, you'll have to change in Nevsehir if you're headed to Derinkuyu.

A municipal bus provides service between Nevsehir and Avanos daily on the hour from 8am to 5pm.

Obviously, a day tour will solve the transportation problem.