Planning a Trip

Getting There

Just as all roads lead to Rome, ferries (aliscafo [hydrofoil] or motonave [motorboat]) leave for Capri from almost every harbor in Campania. Prices range from 9€ to 15€ (by regular ferry) or 15€ to 18€ (by hydrofoil) depending on the season and distance. Caremar (tel. 081-5513882; www.caremar.it) runs ferries to Capri from Naples and from Sorrento. NLG-Navigazione Libera del Golfo (tel. 081-5527209; www.navlib.it) runs to Capri from Naples, Sorrento, and Castellammare di Stabia. Alicost (tel. 089/234-892; www.lauroweb.com/alicost.htm) and Alilauro (tel. 081-4972238; www.alilauro.it) connect Capri to Salerno, Positano, Amalfi, and Ischia. SNAV (tel. 081-4285555 or 081-4285500; www.snav.it) runs hydrofoils and catamarans to Capri from Mergellina and Naples (Molo Beverello). Travelmar (tel. 081-7041911; www.travelmar.it) maintains regular service from Salerno. LMP (tel. 081-5513236; www.consorziolmp.it) has regular hydrofoil and boat service from Positano and Sorrento. Volaviamare (tel. 081-4972211; www.volaviamare.it) has fast boats between Naples, Sorrento, Amalfi, Positano, Salerno, Ischia, and Capri. During the summer, Metrò del Mare (tel. 199-446644; www.metrodelmare.com) makes daily runs to Capri; Amalfi-based Cooperativa Sant'Andrea (tel. 089-873190; www.coopsantandrea.it) offers scheduled service from Amalfi, Capri, Minori, Salerno, and Sorrento; Positano-based Lucibello (tel. 089-975032 or 089-811164; www.lucibello.it) makes runs to and from Capri. Blue Cruises (tel. 081-4972222; www.blucruises.it) and Capitan Morgan (tel. 081-985080; www.capitanmorgan.it) offer minicruises to Capri from Ischia. Not cheap but convenient, Taxi del Mare (tel. 081-8773600; www.taxidelmare.it) plies the waters within the Naples and Salerno bays (about 600€ from Naples to Capri). From the harbor, you can take a taxi or the funicular up to town. Note: You'll do best to hire a porter (facchino) for the climb from the ferry landing to your hotel; the flat rate of 10€ per piece of luggage is well worth it. The service is perfectly trustworthy, so just leave your luggage and head to your hotel. If you like, you can save money by lugging your bags to the funicular or taxi and up into town, where the porters charge only 4€ per piece to the hotels not accessible by car.

Getting Around

Capri gets its name from the ancient Greek kapriae, meaning "island of the wild goats." Indeed, only goats can tread these steep slopes and cliffs with ease. Today modern roads -- including a short stretch of "highway" -- allow for easy transfers, but the price to pay is traffic and congestion, especially in summer. The island is large -- the ancient footpaths and trails are walkable, provided you are as fit as a goat -- but most of us rely on public transportation. Note: Even when using public transportation, you'll still want to wear comfortable shoes. The funicolare (funicular), run by SIPPIC (tel. 081-8370420), is the picturesque means of transportation between the harbor of Marina Grande -- where the ferry and hydrofoil landings are -- and the town of Capri, where it arrives in the heart of town, off Piazza Umberto I. Funiculars leave about every 15 minutes for the 5-minute ride, and you need to purchase tickets in advance at the ticket booth by the ferry landing. Taxis wait by the harbors and at the main stands: Piazza Martiri d'Ungheria, in Capri (tel. 081-8370543), and Piazza Vittoria, in Anacapri (tel. 081-8371175). The minimum rate is 8€, and there are flat rates for a few destinations: 15€ between the harbor at Marina Grande and Capri town; 16€ between Capri and Anacapri; 20€ between the harbor at Marina Grande and Anacapri. The well-run public bus system is great but quite crowded in the summer, and destines you for a hair-raising ride along the narrow cliff roads that crisscross the island. ATC (part of SIPPIC, above) offers service between Marina Grande, Capri, Marina Piccola, and Anacapri, while Staiano Autotrasporti (tel. 081-8372422; www.staianogroup.it) offers service between Anacapri, Faro (Lighthouse), and Grotta Azzurra. Tickets cost 1.40€ for either the bus or funicular. You can also get a 60-minute ticket for 2.20€, valid for one funicular run and unlimited bus runs during the time limit, or a day pass for 6.90€, valid for two funicular rides and unlimited bus service. You can also rent scooters: The most environmentally friendly is Rent an Electric Scooter, Via Roma 68 (tel. 081-8375863), but there are others, such as Antonio Alfano, with two locations: Via Marina Grande 280 (tel. 081-8377941) and Piazza Barile 26, Anacapri (tel. 081-8373888). Boat rental, with or without driver, is readily available at the Marina Grande beach from Banana Sport (tel. 081-8375188) and Leomar (tel. 081-8377181); at Marina Piccola from Rent a Boat (tel. 081-8370355); and from Sercomar, Via Cristoforo Colombo 64, Capri (tel. 081-8378781; www.caprisub.com).

Visitor Information

The AACST (tel. 081-8375308 or 081-8370424; fax 081-8370918; www.capritourism.com) is at Piazzetta Italo Cerio 11.

Fast Facts

You'll find several pharmacies, including one at Via Roma 45 (tel. 081-8370485). The hospital (tel. 081-8381205) is at Via Provinciale Anacapri 5; to call an ambulance dial tel. 118. You can call the police at tel. 113 or 112. The main post office (tel. 081-9785211; Mon-Sat 8am-2pm) is at Via Roma 50. Several banks have ATMs, such as Banco di Napoli, Via Vittorio Emanuele 37, Capri (tel. 081-8374311), as well as its other locations at Via G. Orlandi 150, Anacapri (tel. 081-8382169) and Via Cristoforo Colombo 78, Marina Grande (tel. 081-8374526).

Guided Tours

Capri Time Tours (www.capritime.com), founded by American ex-pat Rebecca Brooks, offers a variety of tours and classes, both on Capri and the mainland. Two companies offer regularly scheduled cruises: Gruppo Motoscafisti (tel. 081-8377714; www.motoscafisticapri.com) and Laser Capri (tel. 081/8375208), both departing from Marina Grande. We recommend the cruise around the island, which costs 13€ and 10€ respectively. They also offer a Blue Grotto cruise for 11€ and 10€ -- which does not include admission or rowboat fees -- among other choices.