Your boat will land in Marina Grande, the largest harbor on the island. Usually bypassed by tourists, this unassuming hamlet hides the island's oldest church, San Costanzo. Dating back to the 5th century, it was enlarged in the 14th century, when its orientation was turned 90 degrees so that the original apse can still be discerned in the right nave. A bit farther to the west are the ruins of the Palazzo a Mare, one of the several ancient Roman palaces scattered around the island. Up the steep slope is the town of Capri. This is the island's heart, with its picturesque streets hiding shops, hotels -- many of them among the coast's most glamorous -- and a wide variety of restaurants and clubs. Social life radiates from the famous Piazzetta (Piazza Umberto I), a favorite spot for seeing and being seen. We highly recommend a walk through the narrow streets of the old town. Start from the Piazzetta, graced by the 14th-century Palazzo Cerio, the best medieval building remaining on the island. It houses the Museo Ignazio Cerio (tel. 081-8376681; 2.60€/$3.65/£1.80), which has exhibits depicting the island's natural history. Take Via Vittorio Emanuele, the town's main street, past the famous Grand Quisisana Hotel, which was built in the 19th century as a sanatorium. Make a right on Via Ignazio Cerio, which leads to the Certosa di San Giacomo (tel. 081-8376218; free admission; Tues-Sun 9am-2pm), a religious complex -- built in the 14th century and later enlarged -- that includes a church, a cloister, and a garden with a belvedere affording great views. Nearby are the Giardini di Augusto, the terraced public gardens affording some of the best scenic vistas in Capri.
From the town of Capri you can walk (or take a taxi) to the ruins of Villa Jovis (Viale Amedeo Maiuri), about 2.4km (1 1/2 miles) from the center of Capri on the northeastern tip of the island. Admission is 2€ ($2.80/£1.40; daily 9am-sunset; ticket booth closes 1 hr. early). This is the best preserved of the 12 villas built on the island by various ancient Roman emperors. Augustus laid claim to a few of them, but the depraved Tiberius had one built for each of the most important gods of the Roman pantheon. Villa Jovis is the one dedicated to Jupiter and, here, as in his other abodes on the island, Tiberius pursued illicit pleasures away from the prying eyes of the Roman Senate. This was his main residence on the island and covered over 5,853 sq. m (63,000 sq. ft.). Its architectural marvels include the Loggia Imperiale, a covered promenade on the edge of the cliff. The views from the villa are, to put it mildly, fit for an emperor of even the most jaded tastes.
From Capri, you can also walk (or take a bus or taxi) to the small harbor of Marina Piccola on the southern shore. This is especially popular for its vantage point from which you can admire the famous Faraglioni, a collection of spiky, rocky structures that jut out of the sea a short distance from the coast. Gracing most of Capri's picturesque views, they are indeed very impressive.
Linked to Capri through the famous Scala Fenicia (later in this chapter), the other town on the island is Anacapri, perched on the higher part of the island, and set among hills and vineyards. The Church of San Michele is worth a visit for its beautiful majolica floor. A short distance out of town is Villa San Michele (tel. 081-8371401; www.sanmichele.org). The Swedish doctor and writer Axel Munthe had this built as his home in the 19th century, adapting the ruins of an ancient Roman villa. The gardens are also well worth the visit, if anything just to enjoy the matchless views from the terrace (admission 5€/$7/£3.50; Mar 9:30am-4:30pm, Apr 9:30am-5pm, May-Sept 9am-6pm, Oct 9:30am-5:30pm, Nov-Dec 10:30am-3:30pm).
From Anacapri catch the chairlift, Via Caposcuro 10 (tel. 081-8371428; 5.50€/$7.70/£3.85 one-way, 7€/$9.80/£4.90 round-trip, children 8 and under free; Mar-Oct 9:30am-sunset; Nov-Feb 10:30am-3pm) to Monte Solaro, Capri's highest peak, rising to an altitude of 589m (1,932 ft.). The trip takes only 12 minutes, but the panorama from the top is worth hours of travel. On a clear day, the matchless views encompass the whole stretch of coast and sea, including Mount Vesuvius and the gulfs of Naples and Salerno.
South of Anacapri (a 50-min. walk or a short ride away) is the island's most famous attraction, the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto). The magical colors of the water and walls of this huge grotto are indeed extraordinary, and writers have rhapsodized about it at length since its so-called "discovery" by foreign tourists in the 19th century. In fact, the grotto has been charted since antiquity: On its southwestern corner, the Galleria dei Pilastri displays the remains of a small, ancient Roman dock. The grotto is part of what appears to be a vast system of caverns that is only partially explored. Unfortunately, you'll have no chance to explore on your own, especially if you come at the height of the season. During this period, motorboats line up outside the grotto, waiting for the small rowboats -- the only vessels allowed inside -- to squeeze a few passengers at a time under the grotto's narrow opening (because of raising sea levels the aperture now extends only about .9m/3 ft. above sea level, and you'll have to lie back in the boat). Because of the long lines, you'll be allowed inside the grotto only for a few minutes. Kids will love the adventure, which conjures up visions of secret expeditions, but adults might find the whole experience wearisome.
The grotto is open daily 9am to 1 hour before sunset; admission is 4€ ($5.60/£2.80). The rowboats that take you inside -- unless you want to swim in, which technically is allowed but certainly not recommended given the traffic -- charge 5€ ($7/£3.50). We don't particularly recommend signing up for a visit by motorboat, as you'll have to factor in even longer waits and negotiate the tricky switch from the large motorboat to the rowboat that will take you inside. Also, you'll pay about 10€ ($14/£7) more for the privilege. Note: As their wages have not risen with inflation, the rowboat operators welcome tips.
