Attractions

Tourists usually pass through Marina Grande, the largest harbor on the island, on their way from the ferry to town and pay little attention to the unassuming hamlet. It is worth exploring though, as it shelters the island's oldest church, San Costanzo. Dating back to the 5th century, it was enlarged in the 14th century, when its orientation was turned 90 degrees so that the original apse can still be discerned in the right nave. A bit farther to the west are the ruins of the Palazzo a Mare, one of the several ancient Roman palaces scattered around the island.

Up the steep slope is the town of Capri, the island's heart. With its narrow streets hiding shops, hotels -- many of them among the coast's most glamorous -- and a wide variety of restaurants and clubs, this is the island's most picturesque destination. Social life radiates from the famous Piazzetta (Piazza Umberto I), a favorite spot for seeing and being seen. We highly recommend a walk through the narrow streets of the old town. Start from the Piazzetta, graced by the 14th-century Palazzo Cerio, the best medieval building remaining on the island. It houses the Museo Ignazio Cerio (tel. 081-8376681; admission 2.60€), which has exhibits depicting the island's natural history. Take Via Vittorio Emanuele, the town's main street, past the famous Grand Quisisana Hotel, which was built in the 19th century as a sanatorium. Make a right on Via Ignazio Cerio, which leads to the Certosa di San Giacomo (tel. 081-8376218; free admission; Tues-Sun 9am-2pm), a religious complex -- built in the 14th century and later enlarged -- that includes a church, a cloister, and a garden with a belvedere affording great views. Nearby are the Giardini di Augusto, the terraced public gardens affording some of the best scenic vistas in Capri.

From the town of Capri, you can walk to the ruins of Villa Jovis (Viale Amedeo Maiuri), about 2.4km (1 1/2 miles) from the center of Capri on the northeastern tip of the island. Admission is 2€; it is open daily 9am to sunset. The ticket booth closes 1 hr. before sunset. This is the best preserved of the 12 villas built on the island by various ancient Roman emperors. Augustus laid claim to a few of them, but the depraved Tiberius had one built for each of the most important gods of the Roman pantheon. Villa Jovis is the one dedicated to Jupiter and, here, as in his other abodes on the island, Tiberius pursued illicit pleasures away from the prying eyes of the Roman Senate. This was his main residence on the island, and it covered over 5,853 sq. m (63,001 sq. ft.). Its architectural marvels include the Loggia Imperiale, a covered promenade on the edge of the cliff. The views from the villa are, to put it mildly, fit for an emperor of even the most jaded tastes.

From Capri, you can also walk (or take a bus or taxi) to the small harbor of Marina Piccola on the southern shore. This is especially popular for its vantage point, from which you can admire the famous Faraglioni, a collection of spiky, rocky structures that jut out of the sea a short distance from the coast. Gracing most of Capri's picturesque views, they are indeed very impressive.

Linked to Capri through the famous Scala Fenicia, the other town on the island is Anacapri, perched on the higher part of the island, and set among hills and vineyards. The Church of San Michele is worth a visit for its beautiful majolica floor. A short distance out of town is Villa San Michele (tel. 081-8371401; www.sanmichele.org). The Swedish doctor and writer Axel Munthe had this built as his home in the 19th century, adapting the ruins of an ancient Roman villa. The gardens are also well worth the visit, if anything, just to enjoy the matchless views from the terrace (admission 5€; Jan-Feb 9am-3:30pm, Mar 9am-4:30pm, Apr 9am-5pm, May-Sept 9am-6pm, Oct 9am-5pm, Nov-Dec 9am-3:30pm).

A great excursion from Anacapri is the ascent up Monte Solaro, Capri's highest peak, rising to an altitude of 589m (1,932 ft.). Seggiovia Monte Solaro (tel. 081-8371428) is a chairlift that departs from Via Caposcuro 10 for the 12-minute trip, and the panorama from the top is worth hours of travel. On a clear day, the matchless views encompass the whole stretch of coast and sea, including Mount Vesuvius and the gulfs of Naples and Salerno. Tickets cost 6€ one-way, 8€ round-trip, free for children 8 and under; hours of operation are March through October 9:30am to sunset, and November through February 10:30am to 3pm.

North of Anacapri (a 50-min. walk or a short ride away) is the island's most famous attraction, the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto). The magical colors of the water and walls of this huge grotto are indeed extraordinary, and writers have rhapsodized about it at length since its so-called discovery by foreign tourists in the 19th century. In fact, the grotto has been charted since antiquity: On its southwestern corner, the Galleria dei Pilastri displays the remains of a small, ancient Roman dock. The grotto is part of what appears to be a vast system of caverns that is only partially explored. Unfortunately, you'll have no chance to explore on your own, especially if you come at the height of the season. During this period, motorboats line up outside the grotto, waiting for the small rowboats -- the only vessels allowed inside -- to squeeze a few passengers at a time under the grotto's narrow opening (because of rising sea levels the aperture now extends only about .9m/3 ft. above sea level, and you'll have to lie back in the boat). Because of the long lines, you'll be allowed inside the grotto only for a few minutes. Kids will love the adventure, which conjures up visions of secret expeditions, but adults might find the whole experience wearisome.

The grotto is open daily 9am to 1 hour before sunset; admission is 4€, plus 6.50€ for the rowboat fee. Rowboats depart from the beach at the bottom of the footpath (the trail head is on the main road by the bus stop). The alternative is to sign up for a cruise from Marina Grande, but we do not particularly recommend this option, as you'll have to factor in even longer waits and negotiate the switch from the large motorboat to the rowboat -- in the open sea, this can be quite tricky, particularly when the waters are not perfectly calm. (It is also the least eco-friendly option.)