A Farmhouse Retreat in the Shadow of Etna -- With Mount Etna rising ominously in the foreground, Azienda Trinità, 34 Via Trinità, 95030 Mascalucia (tel./fax 095-7272156; www.aziendatrinita.it), is a rural farm dating back to 1609. It lies near the little Etnean town of Mascalucia, renowned for its 16th-century churches. The setting is a botanical park where Etna's lava breeds a collection of indigenous and exotic plants. Visitors can stay on the farm or in one of the modern apartments. Guest rooms are midsize and cozy, with wooden ceilings with traditional furniture. Each has air-conditioning, TV, and a small, shower-only bathroom. Meals are prepared with old Sicilian recipes using as much locally grown produce as possible, including the farm's own citrus fruit, olive oil, artichokes, zagara honey, mandarin liqueur, and baked olives. Half board (breakfast and dinner) costs 50€ to 57€ ($60-$68) per person. From the center of Catania, follow the signs to Tangenziale Ovest. Go along this road until you see the exit to Gravina. From here, follow the street signs to Mascalucia Etna.
