Introduction to Cayman Brac

A 17th-century Scottish fisherman named this "middle" 19km-long (12-mile) island of the Caymans Brac (Gaelic for "bluff"). The Bluff is a towering limestone plateau rising 42m (138 ft.) above the sea, covering the eastern half of Cayman Brac. Caymanians refer to the island simply as Brac, and its 1,400 inhabitants, a hospitable bunch of people, are called Brackers. Pirates occupied the Caymans in the early-18th century, and Edward Teach, the infamous Blackbeard, supposedly spent quite a bit of time around Cayman Brac. The island is about 143km (89 miles) east of Grand Cayman.

More than 170 caves honeycomb the limestone heights of the island. Some of the caves are at the Bluff's foot; others can be reached only by climbing over jagged limestone rock. One of the biggest is Great Cave, which has a number of chambers. Harmless fruit bats cling to the roofs of the caverns.

You won't see many people on the south side of the Bluff, and the only sound is the sea crashing against the lava-like shore. You'll find the island's herons and wild green parrots here. Most Brackers live on the north side, in traditional wooden seaside cottages, some of which were built by the island's pioneers. Looking at the variety of flowers, shrubs, and fruit trees in many of the Brackers' yards, it's clear that many islanders have green thumbs. You'll see poinciana trees, bougainvillea, Cayman orchids, croton, hibiscus, aloe, sea grapes, cactuses, and coconut and cabbage palms. Gardeners grow cassava, pumpkins, breadfruit, yams, and sweet potatoes.

No actual towns are on the island, only settlements -- such as Stake Bay (the "capital"), Spot Bay, the Creek, Tibbetts Turn, the Bight, and West End -- which are clustered by the airport.

Warning: Cayman Brac was severely damaged by hurricane winds in late 2008. Some of the smaller businesses were wiped out, and many may not reopen as the same establishments.

Other more established properties should have restored their structures by the time of your arrival. Look for lots of changes going on here in the lifetime of this edition.

Hotels quote their rates in U.S. dollars, whereas most restaurants give you a choice of paying in the Yankee dollar or else in the local Caymanian currency.