Side Trips

On Cefalù's doorstep lies an array of some of Sicily's greatest attractions, including a national park, Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie; the ruins of ancient Tyndaris (which date from 1500 B.C.); and the ceramic capital of Santo Stefano di Camastra, among many other sights.

You can easily schedule 3 nights for a visit to Cefalù, allowing 1 day to explore the town and another 2 days to see the highlights in the surrounding environs.

Parco Naturale Regionale Delle Madonie

Since 1989, some 39,679 hectares (98,049 acres) of the most beautiful land in Sicily has been set aside as a national park. The park begins just 6km (3 3/4 miles) south of Cefalù. You can explore it on your own if you have plenty of time. There are no guided tours of the park.

The park has been called a botanic paradise, as it contains more than half of the 2,600 species known in Sicily. Some of the most ancient rocks and mountains on the island are found here, along with some of the most spectacular peaks. Among them, Pizzo Carbonara, at 1,979m (6,493 ft.), is the highest mountain in Sicily outside of Mount Etna.

The park is far from a wilderness -- it is inhabited and contains any number of charming villages. To reach it from Cefalù, follow the road directions south for 14km (8 3/4 miles) to the Santuario di Gibilmanna. From the belvedere at this town, in front of the little 17th-century church, you can take in a panoramic view of the Madonie, including the peak of Pizzo Carbonara.

The Santuario di Gibilmanna is a shrine to the Virgin Mary. The Madonna is said to have shown signs of life in the 18th century when she was restoring sight to blind pilgrims and speech to a mute. Since the Vatican confirmed this claim, Gibilmanna has been one of the most important shrines in Sicily, drawing the devout.

After taking in the view, continue southeast, following the signs to Castelbuono, an idyllic town that grew around a castello (castle) constructed in the 1300s. You can stop over to visit its historic core, Piazza Margherita. The church here, Madrice Vecchia, dates from the 14th century, when it was built on the ruins of a pagan temple.

If you arrive during the lunch hour, your best bet for a bite to eat is Romittaggio, Località San Guglielmo Sud (tel. 0921-671323), 5km (3 miles) south of Castelbuono. Specializing in simple mountain food, the restaurant is installed in a monastery from the Middle Ages. In summer, you can request a table in the arcades of the cloister. Meals range in price from 8€ to 18€ ($10-$23). The restaurant is closed from June 15 to July 15 and on Wednesdays year-round.

The road continues south to Petralia Soprana, at 1,147m (3,763 ft.) the loftiest town in Madonie and one of the best-preserved medieval villages of Sicily, with narrow streets and houses of local stone. A grand belvedere is found at Piazza del Popolo, with a stunning vista toward Enna in the east.

At the end of Via Loreto, you can visit the church of Santa Maria di Loreto, built on the site of a Saracen fortress and framed by a set of campaniles. In back of the church is Madonie's greatest panorama, with glorious views of volcanic Mount Etna.

The next stopover is Petralia Sottana, overlooking the River Imera Valley. This little village, perched on a rocky spur 1,000m (3,281 ft.) above sea level, is the headquarters of the national park service, Ente Parco, Corso Paolo Agliata 16 (tel. 0921-684011). The office is open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 1:30pm and 3:30 to 6:30pm.

At this point, head west along S120, stopping at Polizzi Generosa, another hilltop magnificently situated on a limestone spur. The view at Piazza XXVII Maggio is one of the most spectacular in Madonie, taking in its loftiest peaks and the scenic valley of the River Himera.

Here you can begin your journey north back to Cefalù, passing through little Scillato until you reach Collesano, a vacation resort where the aura of the Middle Ages still lingers.

It is deceptively simple in its exterior, but the Chiesa Madre, reached by going up a flight of stairs, is filled with art treasures. This church contains masterpieces by the 16th-century painter Gaspare Vazzano, who signed his name "Zoppo di Gangi"; his cycle of frescoes illustrates scenes from the lives of Jesus Christ, St. Paul, and St. Peter. He also painted another magnificent canvas, Santa Maria degli Angeli, found in the north aisle.

After viewing Collesano, you can continue north until you reach autostrada A20, which will take you back to Cefalù, your best base for the night.

Castel Di Tusa

This pleasant little town on the sea is only of minor interest. It opens onto one of the most beautiful "bayscapes" on the island, but not a lot happens here. Despite a ruined feudal fortress that rises from the highest hill, Castel di Tusa might pass for an uneventful fishing village surrounded by rocky, scrub-covered landscape. What makes it worthwhile is an overnight stay at one of Sicily's most remarkable hotels. You can also use the hotel as a base for exploring Madonie Park.

You'll really need a car for getting around the area. Take autostrada A20 from Cefalù, which becomes the SS113 for its final stretch to Castel di Tusa, a distance 25km (16 miles) east of Palermo.

Santo Stefano Di Camastra

Heading east of Cefalù for 33km (21 miles), you'll approach one of the ceramic capitals of Sicily. A visit here can easily be tied in with a stopover at Castel di Tusa. Santo Stefano lies 13km (8 miles) east of Castel di Tusa.

If you're driving, follow A20 east from Cefalù, which becomes the SS113 on its approach to Santo Stefano. The town is also on the main rail link from Palermo/Cefalù, heading east into Messina.

Santo Stefano lies at the western end of the Parco dei Nebrodi, one of the natural beauty spots to the east of Parco delle Madonie. Following a disastrous landslide in 1682, the town was laid out in a geometric grid said to have been copied from the gardens of Versailles.

On the approach roads in and out of town, you'll see dozens of vendors hawking ceramics and pottery. The industry grew here because the area in the hinterlands is said to have some of the best clay in Sicily. Most of the pottery styles are traditional, but others are glaringly moderno. Would you believe a set of tableware devoted to the late Princess Di? In this vast array of merchandise, not all is of equal quality. Some items are shoddily made and filled with imperfections. Examine each piece before buying, and be prepared to haggle over prices.

If the many choices overwhelm you, head for the shop we've found the most reliable over the years: Ceramiche Franco, Via Nazionale 8 (tel. 0921-337222). Craftsmanship and skill go into the Franco family's ceramics, which are inspired by various artistic movements in Italy, especially the Renaissance and the baroque. Hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 7:30pm.

Before actually buying anything, you might want to familiarize yourself with the area's wares by visiting the Museum della Ceramica, Via Palazzo (tel. 0921-331110), in the heart of town in the Palazzo Trabia. The restored palace itself is a thing of beauty, especially its tiled floors, antique furnishings (mainly from the 1700s), and beautifully frescoed ceilings. You'll learn how varied ceramics can be and the technique and skills that go into making them. It's open from May to September, Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 1pm and 4 to 8pm; and from October to April, Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 1pm and 3:30 to 7:30pm. Admission is free.

Tyndaris

At Capo Tindari, approximately 85km (53 miles) from Cefalù, stand the ruins of Tyndaris, on a lonely, rocky promontory overlooking Golfo di Patti. It was known to the ancients since it was founded by Dionysius the Elder in 396 B.C. after a victory over the Carthaginians. For a long time it formed a protective union with its ally, Syracuse, until that eastern Sicilian city fell to the Romans in 256 B.C. Tyndaris has had a rough time of it: It was partially destroyed by a landslide in the 1st century A.D., and then suffered an earthquake in A.D. 365. The Arabs in the 10th century were particularly vicious in destroying its buildings.

The view alone is almost reason enough to go; it stretches from Milazzo in the east to Capo Calavà in the west. On a clear day, there are stunning vistas of the Aeolian Islands, with Vulcano the nearest.

The most serious excavations of the site began after World War II, although digs were launched much less successfully in the 19th century. Most of the ruins you see today date from the days of the Roman Empire, including the basilica, the exact function of which remains unknown. Just beyond the basilica is a Roman villa, which is in rather good condition (you can still see the original mosaics on the floor). Cut into a hill at the end of town is a wide theater, built by the Greeks in the late 4th century B.C. The Insula Romana contains the ruins of baths, patrician villas with fragments of mosaics, and what may have been taverns or drinking halls. Beyond the entrance to the site on the left is a small display of artifacts dug up on the site. You can also see the ruins of defensive walls constructed during the dreadful reign of Dionysius.

The ruins are open daily from 9am until 1 hour before sunset. Admission is 2.10€ ($2.75) for adults, 1.05€ ($1.40) for students and children. For information on the archaeological area, call tel. 0941-369023.

The site is also a place of pilgrimage for the devout who flock to the Santuario di Tindari (tel. 0941-369003), which contains a Byzantine Black Virgin, or the Madonna Negra. Legend has it that this Madonna washed up on the shores of Tyndaris centuries ago. The sanctuary is open Monday to Friday 6:45am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 6:45am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to 8pm. Admission is free.

The site is best reached by private car. From Cefalù, motorists continue east approximately 85km (53 miles) along the main coastal route (A20/SS113). A small tourist office (tel. 0941-241136), at the site at Piazza Marconi, offers limited information. Open Monday to Friday 9am to 1pm and 3 to 7pm, Saturday 9am to 1pm.