For hundreds of years, the stellar ruins at Ephesus have provided voyagers all the impetus they needed to justify a trip to this stretch of scenic coastlands. And for hundreds of years, the inhabitants of the area's sprawling olive, tobacco, and fig orchards have benefited by providing room, board, and the various other services that one might need on the road. Villagers and entrepreneurs of yore were not the first to recognize the commercial value of these scenic hills and crystal waters. Historically, the central and southern Aegean coasts were crossroads for ancient trade routes. Civilization evolved out of the convergence of Eastern and Western cultures; Hellenistic settlers who fled the Dorian invasions emphasized economic expansion and forged ties with people from Egypt, Nubia, Canaan, Mesopotamia, and the Black Sea region. Welcome to the original melting pot.
At one time, the region boasted some of the most illustrious addresses in the world. The Ionian cities of Ephesus, Miletus, and Priene served as cultural incubators in the development of Western thought, home to such philosophers and scholars as Thales Anaximenes, Anaximendros, and Heraclites. Later, Mary under the care of St. John, settled near Ephesus, permanently altering the way an entire civilization perceived Christianity while contributing to the evolution of the religion itself.
The presence of the sea becomes more insistent south of Izmir, characterized by a coastline backed by olive groves, rocky crags, and pine woods. But in recent years rampant development has been the rule (as it has near any main port-cum-resort), and many of the region's characteristic fishing villages and farming towns have been bewitched, and transformed, by the irresistible lure of the euro, dollar, and yen. Nevertheless. most manage to retain at least a little of their ancestral heritage and Turkish character, especially outside the perimeter of the cities' concrete blocks.
The destinations mentioned in this chapter are all within 3 hours of one another and buses run regularly between cities. For shorter excursions, the local dolmuses (minivan-type public transportation) are reliable, though they usually call it quits in the early evening, which will no doubt encourage a few leisurely overnight stays. Time can be split easily between beach activities and visiting the ancient sights. This is the place to take as much time as necessary to decompress from the worries of everyday life.
