Introduction to Central Greece

Central Greece (Sterea Ellada) is home to Delphi, the famous ancient oracle and spectacular sanctuary that is one of Greece's must-see destinations. Delphi has it all: a gravity-defying cliffside location with the remains of treasuries, small temples, a stadium, and a theater -- not to mention the massive temple of Apollo and a view over a plain of gnarled olive trees to the Gulf of Corinth. The star of the Delphi museum is the famous bronze statue of the charioteer who raced his horses to victory in Delphi's stadium. North of Delphi, improbable sheer-sided rock formations rise up from the dusty plain of Thessaly. For a thousand years, pilgrims and tourists have tried to figure out just how monks built the vertiginous monasteries of the Meteora atop these seemingly unscalable cliffs. Yet farther north loom the snow-topped peaks of Mount Olympus, once home to Zeus and the other Olympian gods, today a destination for mountain climbers, hikers, and nature lovers. Central Greece is also home to two of Greece's most famous and bloody ancient battle sites -- Thermopylae and Chaironeia -- and one of its legendary beauty spots -- the Vale of Tempe.

If you are a lover of vibrant nightlife, you may find that evenings in the neighborhood of the monasteries and ancient sanctuaries can be a bit tame. That said, the mountain village of Arakova, 10km (6 miles) from Delphi, has a lively (and very chic) après ski scene in winter.

Despite its famous sights and monuments, Central Greece is not as easy as some other sections of Greece to define: The Peloponnese, for example, is clearly separated from the rest of the mainland by the Gulf of Corinth. Still, most Greeks would agree that Central Greece stretches from the Gulf of Corinth in the south to Mount Olympus in the north. As for the name itself, the term Central Greece (Sterea Ellada) dates from only 1821, when it was used as a shorthand term for the area of mainland Greece that had been liberated from the Turks.

If you're setting out from Athens, take the National Road toward Corinth and then the Thebes turnoff to take in the monastery of Osios Loukas and the sanctuary of Delphi; try to spend 2 nights in Delphi. Then, head north via Lamia to the Meteora for another night or two, before spending a night on or near Mount Olympos.

Tip: If you approach Delphi by car along the northern shore of the Gulf of Corinth, you might want to take a lunch-and-swim break at the miniature port of Galaxidi (35km/22 miles southwest of Delphi). Keep in mind that on summer weekends when Galaxidi's cobblestoned streets, boutiques, cafes, and restaurants are thronged with excursion-loving Athenians, it can be standing room only here. In the 19th and 20th centuries, Galaxidi was a center of ship building, and its harbor is flanked with the substantial stone homes of 19th-century ship captains and seafarers, many of which are now restaurants, cafes, and small hotels. Tassos (tel. 22650/41-219) and Omilos (tel. 22640/42-111) both have fresh fish. If you just want a snack, try the amagdalopasta (an almond sweet somewhere between a candy and a cookie). Almost every Greek island makes its own version of amagdalopasta, but some connoisseurs think Galaxidi does it best. Athenian friends of mine especially praise those on sale at Mina (tel. 22650/41-1117), just off the waterfront. If you're tempted to stay the night, the eight-unit Hotel Ganimede is set in a 19th-century sea captain's house with lots of charm, a garden, and tasty homemade breakfasts (tel. 22650/41-328; www.ganimede.gr); doubles start at 70€.