Attractions

Exploring the Château

Reputedly the second-largest castle in Bohemia (after Prague Castle), Ceský Krumlov Château was constructed in the 13th century as part of a private estate. Throughout the ages, it has been passed on to a variety of private owners, including the Rozmberk family, Bohemia's largest landholders, and the Schwarzenbergs, the Bohemian equivalent of the Hilton family.

Perched high atop a rocky hill, the château is open only from April to October, exclusively by guided tours.

Follow the path for the long climb up to the castle. Greeting you is a round 12th-century tower -- painstakingly renovated, with its Renaissance balcony. You'll pass over the moat, now occupied by two brown bears. Next is the Dolní Hrad (Lower Castle) and then the Horní Hrad (Upper Castle).

There are three guided tours. Tour I begins in the rococo Chapel of St. George, and continues through the portrait-packed Renaissance Rooms, and the Schwarzenberg Baroque Suite, outfitted with ornate furnishings that include Flemish wall tapestries, European paintings, and also the extravagant 17th-century Golden Carriage. Tour II includes the Schwarzenberg portrait gallery as well as their 19th-century suite. Tour III presents Castle's Baroque Theater. Tours last about 1 hour and depart frequently. Most are in Czech or German, however. If you want an English-language tour, arrange it ahead of time (tel. 380-725-110; tourist.service@unios.cz). The guided tours cost 160Kc ($7.60/£3.80) adults, 80Kc ($3.80/£1.90) students (Tour I); 140Kc ($6.65/£3.35) adults, 70Kc ($3.35/£1.65) students (Tour II); 180Kc ($8.55/£4.30) adults, and 90Kc ($4.30/£2.15) students (Tour III). The tickets are sold separately. The castle hours are from Tuesday to Sunday: June to August 9am to 6pm; April, May, September, and October 9am to 5pm. The last entrance is 1 hour before closing.

Once past the main castle building, you can see one of the more stunning views of Ceský Krumlov from Most Na Plásti, a walkway that doubles as a belvedere to the Inner Town. Even farther up the hill lie the castle's riding school and gardens.

Tip: A Crowd Alert

Consider yourself warned: Word has spread about Ceský Krumlov. Late spring to early autumn can be unbearable as thousands of visitors blanket its medieval streets. If possible, try to visit in the off season, when the crowds recede, the prices decrease, and the town's charm can really shine. Who knows, you may even hear some Czech!

Also note: The city suffered damage caused by floods in August 2002. Most of its venues along the river have been cleaned and redecorated by now. For more details about the town, go to www.ckrumlov.cz.