Anson

Charlestonians know that they can spot the local society types in this hip, stylish brick-sided ice warehouse. The present owners have added New Orleans-style iron balconies, Corinthian pilasters salvaged from demolished colonial houses, and enough Victorian rococo for anyone's taste. A well-trained staff in long white aprons describes dishes that are inspired by traditions of the coastal Southeast. But this isn't exactly down-home cookery; France meets the Deep South in one seafood selection: cashew-crusted grouper with hoppin' John, green beans, and a champagne cream sauce. Our favorite is the crispy flounder, which rival chefs have tried to duplicate but haven't equaled. Some of the best meat selections include slow-roasted duck with duck confit potato cake and local peaches, or else a New York strip with Maytag blue cheese and an onion marmalade. A children's menu is available.

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