Shopping

Chefchaouen is known for its weaving, particularly the blue, white, and red-striped Riffi blankets, which are worn by most rural women in the Rif. Mohammed Hazim's 40-year-old Bazar Hicham, on place Outa el Hammam (tel. 0664/826252), was the first artisinat Marocain (Moroccan handicrafts shop) in the village. Here visitors can see wool and silk blankets being handwoven on a traditional loom. The shop is open daily 9am to 9pm.

In the eastern corner of place el Makhzen is the town's Ensemble Artisinal, where Riffi blankets, along with other crafts, can be bought at fixed prices. Hours are Monday to Friday 9am to noon and 3 to 6pm. There's also a line of small shops on place el Makhzen selling jewelry, trinkets (including the sebsi, or kif-smoking pipe), and the usual selections of lanterns, lamps, and carpets.

On the corner of place Outa el Hammam and rue Targui is Aladin the Herboriste. This small two-story store is filled with spices, soaps, oils, crystals, and 101 natural concoctions to help every human condition known to science -- and perhaps a few that aren't. It's open daily 9am to 9pm.

Around the village you'll see both locals and travelers wearing thick, woolly beanies and berets. These are made in Chefchaouen and are particularly popular during the cold months, when funky leg warmers are also a smart purchase. Farther up rue Targui, at its junction with rue Garnata, is the tiny shop of the well-known kif-smoking Hatman. Pop in for a chat and a look at his range of wildly colored woolly warmers.