With most Chennaites preferring to dine at home, the city has a dearth of fine-dining options, with most remaining cloistered in the city's five-star hotels. But with the greater economic prosperity, that pattern is slowly changing. We'd like to encourage you to experience the delicious and varied flavors of South India, particularly the cuisine of the Chettinad, surrounded by Chennaites. Two of the best places to do this are the superb Karaikudi (84 Radhakrishna Salai; tel. 044/2491-0900) and Saravana Bhavan. Karaikudi is more "upmarket" than Saravana Bhavan, with carpeted floors and waiters wearing the traditional Panchakacham style; at the entrance two large brass pots are supposed to emulate that of a Chettinad home. But it's in no way fine dining (for that you'd best stick to the five-star hotels), with indifferent service. But the food is truly superb; try the special Chettiar chicken pepper roast with appams, the (fried) pigeon Varuval, or best of all, order the thali (multicourse platter). An average meal here will run you Rs 60 to Rs 150 ($1-$4/50p-£2) per person.
If you're bored with South Indian food, you'll also find many of the world's tastes represented in the city. If you're mood is for Thai, don't miss the highly rated Benjarong, reviewed below; if it's Italian, head for Bella Ciao (4 Shree Krishna Enclave, off Water Land Dr., Kottivakkam Beach; tel. 044/2451-1130), where Ciro Cattaneo serves authentic pizzas and pastas at a pleasant outdoor venue near the beach. Hip Asia (tel. 044/5500-0000), the Taj Connemara's stylish restaurant, is where imported chefs twirl knives and jars at the Japanese teppanyaki counter. Delicate Vietnamese and Thai (avoid the Malay) dishes are superbly crafted, and served in a trendy setting that transforms itself from a lunch to dinner space.
Chennai also has several shop-and-unwind stops worth considering. Moca Café, better known by the store's name, Amethyst (Jeypore Colony, Gopalapuram; tel. 044/2835-1627), is set in a delightful old colonial bungalow where you can choose to sit indoors or outdoors under the shade of huge, century-old trees. Kiran Rao, the cafe/shop owner, serves organic gourmet coffee and great cakes. Upstairs you'll find designer clothing in Western designs and Indian fabrics. Some evenings, performances or book or poetry readings are on offer. Chamiers (Chamiers Rd., across from ITC Park Sheraton; tel. 044/2431-1495), situated in a charming bungalow, offers food similar to that at the Moca Café, juices, and fresh salads served in the shade of an almond tree. It's attached to Anokhi, the leading Jaipur design store, where you can buy Western-style clothes designed in traditional India hand-block-print fabric. Both Moca Café and Chamiers (and the stores) are open every day of the week.
Eating with Your Hands -- A superb and authentic introduction to South Indian cuisine is a lunch at an outlet of Saravana Bhavan (the one near the station may be most convenient). We recommend that you sit in the large hall where the locals eat with their hands (there is usually a small, drab air-conditioned room where "refined" Indians and foreigners eat the same food with cutlery -- not nearly as much fun, and pricier to boot). It can be a bit intimidating to eat with your hands, given that many of the dishes are quite liquid, and none of the servers who wander around with huge pots dishing out spoonfuls speak English. If you find this daunting, or you're simply not sure how to proceed with the many courses that are piled onto your banana leaf (which you rinse with the water on the table), ask your driver (assuming you have one) to join you for lunch and follow his lead. Ask what each spoonful is, and by the end of your meal you'll have taken a crash course in South Indian food. Come hungry: The special Tamil Nadu thali is an assortment of 23 items for just Rs 95 ($2/£1). If that much food seems overwhelming, order a minitiffin (an assortment of tasty breakfast items, including the "definitive taste" of Sambar, a gravy that is mopped up with a variety of pancakes) and a traditional South Indian coffee.
