For an economical meal with some local atmosphere, try Restaurante Pantoja, on the corner of calles Ghandi and 16 de Septiembre (tel. 983/832-3957), 2 blocks east of the Museum of Maya Culture. It offers a cheap daily special, good green enchiladas, and such local specialties as poc chuc (grilled marinated pork). It's open Monday to Saturday from 7am to 7pm. To sample excellent antojitos, the local supper food, go to El Buen Gusto, on Calzada Veracruz across from the market (no phone). A Chetumal institution, it serves excellent salbutes and panuchos (both dishes are similar to gorditas), tacos, and sandwiches. It's open in the morning until 2pm and then opens again around 7pm and closes at midnight. If for some reason it's closed, go next door La Ideal, which many locals hold to be the better of the two supper joints. It has delicious tacos de pierna (soft tacos with thinly sliced pork shoulder) and agua de horchata (water flavored with rice, vanilla, and toasted pumpkin seed).
