Attractions

The Wats -- Chiang Mai has more than 700 temples, the largest concentration outside of Bangkok, and unique little sites are around every corner. In one very full day you can hit the highlights in Old Chiang Mai if you travel by tuk-tuk.

Monk Chat -- What do you say to these tonsured men in orange robes one sees piously padding barefoot around Thailand? The answer is: "Hello. How are you?" Monks, especially seniors, deserve a special level of respect, of course, but are quite human, and the best way to find out is to stop by Mahachulalongkorn University (adjoining Wat Suan Dok, east of town on Suthep Rd.). Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 5 to 7pm, they welcome foreign visitors for "monk chat," a classroom venue of small, informal discussion groups where visitors and monks come to connect, share culture, and learn about Buddhism from novices eager to explain and, of course, practice their English. It is a mostly informal discussion about one's own country or sports (young novices are nuts about David Beckham and English Premier League football), but the more senior monks can give you some insights into Buddhist practice and monastic life. They also meet for meditation groups and retreats. Call tel. 05327-8967, e-mail thaimonkchat@yahoo.com, or visit www.monkchat.net for info.

Cultural Pursuits

Thai Cooking School -- If you love Thai food and fancy yourself a chef, consider taking a cooking class in Chiang Mai. The priciest cookery classes are offered at top resorts like the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi (covered earlier), but very reasonable courses abound in town as well, such as those offered at Chiang Mai Cookery School, the oldest establishment of its kind in Chiang Mai. They have 5-day courses, each teaching basic Thai cooking skills, but daily menus feature up to seven new dishes -- over a week you can learn a lot. You'll have hands-on training and a lot of fun. Classes start at 10am, last until 4pm, and cost 990B (US$28/£15) for the day. Contact them at their main office at 1-3 Moon Muang Rd., opposite the Thapae Gate (tel. 05320-6388; www.thaicookeryschool.com).

Another school to try is Kao Hom (tel. 05386-2967; www.kaohom.com), established by two sisters. It is open daily except Mondays. Group classes are held from 10:30am to 2:30pm and cost 2,500B (US$71/£38) per person; private lessons run 4:30 to 7:30pm and cost a bit more -- 3,500B (US$100/£53).

Massage School -- The Thai massage schools in Bangkok and Phuket teach the southern style of Thai massage, which places pressure on muscles to make them tender and relaxed. Northern-style Thai massage is something closer to yoga, where your muscles are stretched and elongated to enhance flexibility and relaxation. There are a number of schools in Chiang Mai, and many are no more than small storefronts where, for very little, you'll get individual instruction of varying quality. It is best to go with a more established school: International Training Massage, or ITM, has popular courses (conducted in English) for anyone from first-timers to experts. Each five-day course is 3,500B (US$100/£54). Contact them at 17/7 Morakot Rd., Hah Yaek Santitham (tel. 05321-8632; fax 05322-4197).

Meditation -- The Northern Insight Meditation Center at Wat Rampoeng (Kan Klongchonprathan Rd.) is a well-respected center for learning Vipassana meditation. "Are you ready?" is all they'll ask you upon arrival, because the daily schedule means rising early and many hours spent in concentration. The monks, nuns, and lay volunteers who run the center invite only men and women who bring a certain resolve or at least a willingness to stay for 10 days (though the 26-day course is highly recommended). Volumes have been written about the practice of Vipassana, but the main idea is to develop mindfulness and observe one's body, mind, and emotions -- to eventually gain "insight" and to see things as they are, without delusion. Come prepared to "peel the onion" of the ego. Participants are assigned very sparse private rooms, are asked to wear white, loose-fitting clothes (available at the temple store), and basic meals are served at 6 and 10:30am only (there isn't an evening meal). Rules are drawn from the monastic precept and are thus rigid. There is no charge for the course, but you will be asked to make a contribution to the temple of whatever amount you see fit. Retreats are ongoing, but they try to consolidate first-timer's start dates for orientation purposes. Call ahead (3 weeks in advance is preferred) at tel. 05327-8620. The temple also welcomes day visitors, and it might be a good idea for those considering a course to have a look. Located on a rural road south and west of town (past the airport), the temple is best reached by tuk-tuk, songtaew, or rented motorbike. (Wat Rampoeng, Tambol Suthep, Chiang Mai; tel. 05327-8620; www.watrampoeng.com.)