The oldest continuously inhabited city in Thailand, just 26km (16 miles) south of Chiang Mai, Lamphun was founded in A.D. 663 by the Mon Queen Chammadevi as the capital of Nakorn Hariphunchai. Throughout its long history, the Hariphunchai Kingdom, an offspring of the Mon Empire, was fought over, often conquered; yet, it remained one of the powers of the north until King Mengrai established his capital in neighboring Chiang Mai.
The best way to get there is by car, taking the old highway Route 106 south to town. The Superhighway no. 11 runs parallel and east of it, but you'll miss the tall yang (rubber) trees, which shade the old highway until Sarapi, and the bushy yellow-flowered khilik (cassia) trees. Buses to Lamphun and Pasang leave from the Chang Puak Bus Station (tel. 05321-1586); the 45-minute ride costs 7B (15¢).
The town is legendary for its beautiful women. There are some historical wats, including excellent Dvaravati-style chedis, and a fine museum. Longan (lumyai) is a native fruit that resembles clusters of fuzzy brown grapes, which peel easily to yield luscious crisp white flesh. The trees can be recognized by their narrow, crooked trunks and large, droopy oval leaves. On the second weekend in August, Lamphun goes wild with its Longan Festival, with a parade of floats decorated only in longans and a beauty contest to select that year's Miss Longan. Lamphun and Pasang (to the south) are also popular with shoppers for their excellent cotton and silk weaving.
The highlight of Lamphun is Wat Phra That Hariphunchai, one of the most striking temples in all of Thailand. (Wat Phra That Doi Suthep was modeled after it.) The central chedi, in Chiang Saen style, is said to house a hair of the Buddha and is more than 45m (150 ft.) high and dates from the 9th century, when it was built over a royal structure. The nine-tiered umbrella at the top contains 6,498.75 grams of gold, and the chedi's exterior is faced with bronze. Also of interest in the temple complex are an immense bronze gong (reputedly the largest in the world), and several wihaan (rebuilt in the 19th and 20th c.) containing Buddha images. According to legend, the Buddha visited a hill about 16km (10 miles) southeast of town, where he left his footprints; the site is marked by Wat Phra Bat Tak Pha. During the full-moon day in May, there's a ritual bathing for the Phra That.
The new Hariphunchai National Museum, Amphur Muang (tel. 05351-1186), is across the street from Wat Phra That Hariphunchai's back entrance. It's worth a visit to see the many bronze and stucco religious works from the wat. The museum also contains a fine collection of Dvaravati- and Lanna-style votive and architectural objects. Open Wednesday to Sunday 9am to noon and 1 to 4pm; admission 30B (70¢).
Wat Chammadevi (Wat Kukut) is a large complex located less than 1km (2/3 mile) northwest of the city center. The highlights here are the late Dvaravati-style chedis, and Suwan Chang Kot and Ratana, built in the 8th and 10th centuries respectively, and modeled on those at Bodha Gaya in India. The central one is remarkable for the 60 standing Buddhas that adorn its four corners. The wat itself was built by Khmer artisans for King Mahantayot around A.D. 755. The relics of his mother, Queen Chammadevi, are housed inside, but the gold-covered pagoda was stolen, earning this site its nickname Kukut (topless).
