The jewel of Chiang Mai, Wat Phra That glistens in the sun on the slopes of Doi Suthep mountain. One of four royal wats in the north, at 1,000m (3,250 ft.), it occupies an extraordinary site with a cool refreshing climate, expansive views over the city, and the mountain's idyllic forests, waterfalls, and flowers.
In the 14th century, during the installation of a relic of the Buddha in Wat Suan Dok (in the Old City), the holy object split in two, with one part equaling the original size. A new wat was needed to honor the miracle. King Ku Na placed the new relic on a sacred white elephant and let it wander freely through the hills. The elephant climbed to the top of Doi Suthep, trumpeted three times, made three counterclockwise circles, and knelt down, choosing the site for Wat Phra That.
The original chedi was built to a height of 8m (26 1/2 ft.). Subsequent kings contributed to it, first by doubling the size, then by adding layers of gold and other ornamentation to the exterior. The gilded-copper decorative umbrellas around the central chedi and the murals showing scenes from the Buddha's life are especially attractive.
Other structures were raised to bring greater honor to the Buddha and various patrons. The most remarkable is the steep 290-step naga (snake) staircase, added in 1557, leading up to the wat -- one of the most dramatic approaches to a temple in all of Thailand. To shorten the 5-hour climb, the winding road was constructed in 1935 by thousands of volunteers under the direction of a local monk.
Visitors with exposed legs are offered a sarong at the entrance. Most Thai visitors come to make an offering -- usually flowers, candles, incense, and small squares of gold leaf that are applied to a favored Buddha or to the exterior of a chedi -- and to be blessed. Believers kneel down and touch their foreheads to the ground three times in worship. Some shake prayer sticks to learn their fortune.
Wat Phra That is open daily 7am to 5pm; come early or late to avoid the crowds; the suggested donation is 20B (45¢). To get there, take the minibus from Chang Puak (White Elephant) Gate on the north side of the Old City. The fare is 35B (80¢) going up and 25B (55¢) for the descent. The ride can get cool, so bring a sweater or jacket. The bus stops at the base of the naga staircase. If you'd rather not climb the 290 steps -- a special part of the experience -- there's a motorized gondola to the top for 5B (10¢). You can simplify matters by booking a half-day trip though any tour agency for 600B ($15), including a stop at Phuping Palace.
Phuping Palace (Doi Bua Ha) is the summer residence of Thailand's royal family, which is 4km (2 1/2 miles) beyond Doi Suthep, 22km (14 miles) west of the Old City off Rte. 1004. When the royal family isn't present, visitors are allowed to enter and stroll its beautiful gardens. When it's open (check with the TAT), the hours are Friday to Sunday 8:30am to 4:30pm, and admission is free. You really have to dress conservatively for this one. Military guards at the gate act like the fashion police -- tuck in your shirt, unroll your trousers, don't tie your sweater around your waist, and anything else they think is unacceptable for a royal palace. The Doi Suthep minibus continues to the Phuping Palace from Wat Phra That.
