Restaurants

It's not easy to narrow down the list of impressive restaurants in this city. The competition among high-end establishments is especially intense. A few well-regarded chefs -- Jean Joho at Everest, Arun Sampanthavivat at Arun's, Charlie Trotter at his namesake place -- still reign after decades on the job, but newer spots have upped the stakes (and the average check price) considerably. The biggest splash has come from spots such as Alinea and Moto, where food comes in forms and combinations you've likely never experienced before. Other spots dazzle with decor, from the Arabian-Nights-themed Tizi Melloul and colorful Carnivale to the Miami-cool De La Costa and trendy newcomer ZED 451.

If one-of-a-kind meals and splashy settings aren't your style, Chicago is still a meat-and-potatoes kind of town. There are dozens of steakhouses; although I've highlighted some of the best, I couldn't include them all. Comfort food remains a staple of many local restaurant menus, from the beyond-tender ribs at Carson's to the Southern catfish at Wishbone.

Chicago's many ethnic restaurants -- in all price ranges -- are highlights of the city's dining scene. Funky fusion concepts include the Japan-meets-South America theme at SushiSamba Rio and the Indian/Latin American combos at Vermilion. You'll find upscale versions of ethnic cuisine at places such as Frontera Grill (Mexican), Arun's (Thai), and Spiaggia (which might be the country's most elegant Italian restaurant). But affordable (and attitude-free) restaurants still thrive in the city's original immigrant neighborhoods -- Greektown, Little Italy, and Chinatown.

Unfortunately, Chicago is no longer the budget-dining destination it once was. Hipness doesn't come cheap. But just because prices have risen doesn't mean that attitudes have. Restaurants in Chicago might have become trendy, but they're still friendly.

I've divided restaurants into four price categories: "Very Expensive" means most entrees cost $25 to $30 (and up); "Expensive" indicates most entrees run from $18 to $25; "Moderate" means most entrees are $20 or less; and at an "Inexpensive" place, they cost $15 or less.

Whether you're looking for a restaurant to impress a business colleague or simply a no-frills spot to dig in, these are the places the locals go when they want to eat well. To find out more about restaurants that have opened since this book went to press, check out the Chicago Tribune's entertainment website (www.metromix.com), the websites for the monthly magazine Chicago (www.chicagomag.com) and the weekly Time Out Chicago (www.timeoutchicago.com), and the local foodie website LTH Forum (www.lthforum.com/bb/index.php).

Note to smokers: Smoking is against the law in restaurants; those with a separate bar area can choose to allow smoking there, but only if they have installed an air filtration system. If you want to light up when you go out, call first to see if smoking is permitted.

A Spot of Tea

If you're shopping on the Magnificent Mile and feel like having an elegant afternoon tea complete with finger sandwiches, scones, and pastries, head for the stately Palm Court at The Drake Hotel, 140 E. Walton Place (tel. 312/787-2200); the cozy Seasons Lounge of the Four Seasons Hotel, 120 E. Delaware Place (tel. 312/280-8800); or The Greenhouse in the Ritz-Carlton, 160 E. Pearson St. (tel. 312/266-1000), in the sunny 12th-floor lobby above the Water Tower Place mall. In the Loop, the appropriately named Russian Tea Time. 77 E. Adams St. (tel. 312/360-0000), serves tea from 2:30 to 4:30pm daily.

Dessert Tour

Eli's cheesecake is a Chicago icon -- the rich, creamy cakes have been served at presidential inaugurations and numerous other high-profile events. For a behind-the-scenes peek at Chicago's most famous dessert, you can take a tour of Eli's bakery on the northwest side of the city. After watching the cooking and decorating processes, you get to enjoy a full-size slice of your favorite flavor. Tours are given Monday through Friday at 1pm (although reservations aren't necessary, call to make sure the bakery isn't closed for periodic maintenance). The 40-minute tour costs $3 for adults and $2 for children 11 and under; special packages are available for groups of 10 or more. Eli's bakery is at 6701 Forest Preserve Dr., at the corner of Montrose Avenue (tel. 800/ELI-CAKE; www.elischeesecake.com).

Kitchens Up-Close

Serious food fans can get a firsthand look at how some of the city's culinary stars work by booking a seat at a chef's table. You'll get a personal tour of the kitchen, a special selection of dishes, and -- best of all -- a front-row seat for dinner-hour drama. At Tru (tel. 312/202-0001), four to six people can sit in a glass-enclosed room off the kitchen, where they can check out the scene without feeling the heat. The chef's table at Charlie Trotter's (tel. 773/248-6228) seats four to six right in the kitchen, so diners can catch Trotter's legendary perfectionism up close. At Zealous (tel. 312/475-9112), the chef's table seats 8 to 10 and is in the main dining room -- but bamboo trees surround it, so other diners won't get jealous when chef Michael Taus stops by for some one-on-one taste tests.

Chef's tables don't come cheap ($100-$175 per person), but they're a special splurge for die-hard foodies. Just remember to reserve well in advance because these tables book fast.

McDonald's Gets Glitzy

I have mixed feelings about recommending a fast-food chain restaurant in this guide, but let's get real: Most visitors (especially if they're here with kids) stop for a greasy fix at some point during their stay. If you're going to go the fast-food route, head for the McDonald's at the corner of Grand Avenue and Clark Street, which was unveiled for the company's 50th anniversary in 2005. The gleaming, glass-enclosed building looks like something out of The Jetsons, and it's filled with stylish amenities that would look right at home in a luxury airport lounge. You can chow down while relaxing in a reproduction of Mies van der Rohe's famous Barcelona chair, check out the exhibit of collectible Happy Meal toys from inside a 1960s-style egg chair, or order a cappuccino and gelato at the upstairs cafe.