Local Cuisine

Pizza

We have three pizza styles in Chicago: Chicago style, also known as deep-dish, which is thick-crusted and often demands a knife and fork; stuffed, which is similar to a pie, with a crust on both top and bottom; and thin crust. Many pizzerias serve both thick and thin, and some make all three kinds.

Three of Chicago's best gourmet deep-dish restaurants are Pizzeria Uno, Pizzeria Due, and Gino's East. In River North, Lou Malnati's Pizzeria, 439 N. Wells St. (at Hubbard St.; tel. 312/828-9800), bakes both deep-dish and thin-crust pizza and even has a low-fat-cheese option. Edwardo's is a local pizza chain that serves all three varieties, but with a wheat crust and all-natural ingredients (spinach pizza is the specialty here); locations are in the Gold Coast at 1212 N. Dearborn St. (at Division St.; tel. 312/337-4490); in the South Loop at 521 S. Dearborn St. (between Congress Pkwy. and Harrison St.; tel. 312/939-3366); and in Lincoln Park at 2622 N. Halsted St. (at Wrightwood Ave.; tel. 773/871-3400). Not far from Lincoln Park Zoo is Ranalli and Ryan's, 1925 N. Lincoln Ave. (between Wisconsin St. and Armitage Ave.; tel. 312/642-4700), whose biggest selling point is a large open-air patio and extensive selection of beers.

In Wrigleyville, just off Belmont Avenue, is Leona's Pizzeria, 3215 N. Sheffield Ave. (between Belmont Ave. and School St.; tel. 773/327-8861), which serves all three kinds of pizza. Leona's also has a location in Little Italy at 1419 W. Taylor St. (between Bishop and Loomis sts.; tel. 312/850-2222).

For a unique take on the deep-dish phenomenon, try the "pizza potpie" at Chicago Pizza & Oven Grinder, 2121 N. Clark St., steps from the Lincoln Park Zoo (between Webster and Dickens aves.; tel. 773/248-2570). The pizzas are baked in a bowl and then turned over when served. This neighborhood spot stays popular year after year, so plan on showing up early for dinner to avoid a long wait.

Hot Dogs

The classic Chicago hot dog includes a frankfurter by Vienna Beef (a local food processor and hallowed institution), heaps of chopped onions and green relish, a slather of yellow mustard, pickle spears, fresh tomato wedges, a dash of celery salt, and, for good measure, two or three "sport" peppers, those thumb-shaped holy terrors that turn your mouth into its own bonfire.

Chicago is home to many standout hot-dog spots but one, Hot Doug's, 3324 N. California Ave. (at Roscoe Street, tel. 773/279-9550), takes encased meats to a new level, featuring several gourmet sausages on a bun every day except Sunday (plan on standing in line no matter which day you show up -- and it's always worth it). Hot Doug's also serves a great classic Chicago dog just like many other stands in town, including Gold Coast Dogs, 159 N. Wabash Ave., at Randolph Street (tel. 312/917-1677), in the Loop just a block from Michigan Avenue. Fluky's, in The Shops at North Bridge mall, 520 N. Michigan Ave. (tel. 312/245-0702), is part of a local chain that has been serving great hot dogs since the Depression (Dan Aykroyd and Jay Leno are fans). Portillo's, 100 W. Ontario St. (at Clark St.; tel. 312/587-8930), is another local chain that specializes in hot dogs but also serves tasty pastas and salads. Murphy's Red Hots, 1211 W. Belmont Ave. (at Racine Ave.; tel. 773/935-2882), is a neighborhood spot not too far from Wrigley Field, while The Wieners Circle, in Lincoln Park at 2622 N. Clark St. (between Wrightwood Ave. and Drummond Place; tel. 773/477-7444), is a late-night favorite where rude order-takers are part of the shtick.

If you've got a car, head up to Superdawg Drive-In, 6363 N. Milwaukee Ave. (at Devon Ave.; tel. 773/763-0660), on the northwest side of the city (look for the giant hot dogs dressed as Tarzan and Jane on the roof). This classic 1950s-style flashback has been run by the same family for three generations, and, yes, they still have carhops who bring out your order.

Dessert Tour

Eli's cheesecake is a Chicago icon -- the rich, creamy cakes have been served at presidential inaugurations and numerous other high-profile events. For a behind-the-scenes peek at Chicago's most famous dessert, take a tour of Eli's bakery on the northwest side of the city. After watching the cooking and decorating processes, you get to enjoy a full-size slice of your favorite flavor. Tours are given Monday through Friday at 1pm (although reservations aren't necessary, call to make sure the bakery isn't closed for periodic maintenance). The 40-minute tour costs $3 for adults and $2 for children 11 and under; special packages are available for groups of 10 or more. Eli's bakery is at 6701 Forest Preserve Dr., at the corner of Montrose Avenue (tel. 800/ELI-CAKE; www.elischeesecake.com).

Chicago Treats

Deep-dish pizza may be Chicago's culinary claim to fame, but the city has added to the national waistline in other ways. Twinkies and Wonder Bread were invented here; Chicago businessman James L. Kraft created the first processed cheese; and Oscar Mayer got his start as a butcher in the Old Town neighborhood.