In a neighborhood full of Irish pubs and casual sandwich joints, Boka is a sophisticated, grown-up alternative. The dimly lit dining room manages to be both romantic and dramatic, thanks to the white fabric "sculptures" stretched across the ceiling. The food -- described by the owners as "progressive American" -- covers a range of meat and seafood; while the preparations are simple and light, the combinations are more like what you'd see at a high-end gourmet restaurant (which should be no surprise, given that the chef used to work at Charlie Trotter's). An appetizer salad combines baby octopus, barbecued eel, mussels, purple Peruvian potatoes, and Granny Smith apples, while seemingly straightforward entrees are topped with unexpected garnishes, such as herbed salmon with passion fruit-basil vinaigrette or chicken breast topped with fois gras sauce. The desserts, which look like miniature modern art arrangements, offer a combination of flavors, such as a dark chocolate ice cream served with sesame cookies and roasted pineapple. The wine list has an international feel -- covering Napa to Bordeaux to South Africa -- and a fair number of half-bottle selections. Boka makes a great dinner stop before a show at Steppenwolf Theatre, but make a reservation, because many fellow theatergoers will have the same idea. Aesthetically, Boka's main claim to fame is its cellphone booth, where diners are encouraged to make calls rather than share their conversation with the whole dining room. Now that's an idea I hope catches on.
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