Custom House

Frommer's Review

Chef Shawn McClain won raves for his seafood at Spring, and then proved Chicagoans would flock to an off-the-beaten-path, mostly vegetarian restaurant with Green Zebra. Given that track record, it's no surprise that his next venture, Custom House, had local foodies lining up almost immediately when it opened in 2005.

This time around, McClain seems determined to prove that he can cook red meat, too. Although the menu has a decent seafood section, the highlights here are strictly carnivore, from the rich, almost buttery short rib (served with horseradish-flavored cream puffs) to the pork chop accompanied by pork-stuffed cannelloni and wild mushrooms. There are no gimmicks; you won't be dazzled with flavored foams or other culinary tricks. The draw here is McClain's sure touch with ingredients, his knack for mixing unexpected flavors simply but perfectly. (Take, for example, the seemingly straightforward spinach salad, which is livened up with thick chunks of bacon, roasted shiitake mushrooms and hazelnuts). The prices strike me as fairly high for such simplicity, but the service is top-notch and the setting sophisticated, with velvet-upholstered booths that allow for quiet conversation.

Because Custom House is located in a hotel, the restaurant serves breakfast daily, weekday lunch, and a Sunday brunch.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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