Frommer's Review
Chef Michael Tsonton (known around here for his role in opposing the city's ban on foie gras in 2006), has created a wonderful restaurant that is truly a hidden gem. Its inconspicuous location (occupying a ground-floor corner of the curvy black Lake Point Tower in front of Navy Pier) does not allow for a lot of walk-by recognition, but Copperblue probably would have become a "destination" restaurant no matter where it chose to set up shop. The dining room is warm, with ancient mural scenes on the walls, but it is also bright, with shades of gold and deep blue. That same serious-yet-whimsical sensibility carries over to the menu. Recent offerings included snails in white wine with fresh hearts of palm and green garlic; and crispy saffron and Spanish ham rice croquettes called "ham & these." Entrees featured roasted Berkshire pork loin and crispy belly with wild ramps and dandelion greens; and Pacific snapper with fava beans and watercress in mustard spice "and everything nice" butter broth. There are three tasting menus, one of which is called "the fifth quarter," which refers not to the five courses in it ($60) but to the fact that the offerings come from the parts of the animal that normally do not get cooked in fine restaurants, let alone eaten. Traditional five- and seven-course chef's tastings cost $65 and $80, respectively. The wine list, like the food, sticks close to the Mediterranean, too, with French varietals broken down by region.
580 E. Illinois St. (between Lake Shore Dr. and Navy Pier). tel. 312/527-1200. www.copperbluechicago.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19-$45. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues-Thurs 5:30-10:30pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11:30pm; Sun 5-9pm. Subway/El: Red Line to Grand, then a short cab ride.
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