The People

Chilean Society

One-third of Chile's 16 million people live in the Santiago metropolis alone. This disproportionate centralization in a country that stretches 4,200km (2,600 miles) from north to south often leads to accusations that the government does more for the local populace than for residents in far-flung locales such as Punta Arenas. About 90% of the population is mestizo, a mix of indigenous and European blood that includes Spanish, German (in the Lake District), and Croatian (in southern Patagonia). Other nationalities, such as Italian, Russian, and English, have contributed a smaller influence. In general, visitors will find that the average Chilean looks like a southern European. Indigenous groups such as the Aymara in the northern desert and the Mapuche in the Lake District still exist in large numbers, although nothing compared to their size before the Spanish conquest. It is estimated that there are more than a half-million Mapuches, many of whom live on poverty-stricken reducciones (literally "reductions"), where they continue to use their language and carry on their customs -- if traveling through that area you can't miss their trademark silver and nickel jewelry. In southern Chile and Tierra del Fuego, indigenous groups such as the Alacalufe and Yagan have been diminished to only a few people, and some, such as the Patagonian Ona, have been completely extinguished.

Chileans are the most conservative and timid of all Latin Americans, especially when compared to their more gregarious and outspoken neighbors in Argentina. At a party or any social event you'll find that Chileans do not go out of their way to meet new people, sticking instead to socializing with friends. Chile is geographically cut off by the Andes and the Pacific Ocean, and this has spawned an insular society that can suffer from a marginality complex. Chileans, especially the elite, are always looking to the outside world for comparisons rather than looking within themselves for original inspiration in everything from architecture to fashion to cuisine. In spite of this, Chileans are enormously patriotic, evidenced by celebrations during the multiday festival surrounding Independence Day, when Chileans festoon streets and vehicles with Chilean flags and decorations in a display of national pride, dance the cueca, and drink copious amounts of pisco and chicha alongside endless barbecues. In rural areas and small towns outside Santiago, Chileans are warmly affectionate and hospitable to strangers. You'll get a lot of mileage out of a polite "Buenas tardes" and a friendly smile.

Though not inherently a racist country (there is little racial diversity here), Chile suffers from an unhealthy amount of classism. One look at Sunday's voluminous society pages in the El Mercurio newspaper will give you an idea of Chile's elite families, who place tremendous value on a person's surname, place of education, and whether he/she has a fashionable address, rather than personal achievement or talent. In business, it is not uncommon for a Chilean to ask a foreigner which university he/she attended in order to "place" the person. The elite are known as cuicos, and the poor as rotos or ordinarios. Chile's booming economy has produced a burgeoning middle class, evidenced by jam-packed shopping malls and new condominium buildings springing up around Santiago, yet few talented Chileans from middle-class and poor families stand a chance at rising to the top without the right connections, known as pituto.

Given the provinciality of Chileans and the country's former era of dictatorship and censorship, Chileans have created an art form out of gossiping; no topic, it seems, is out of bounds for a good dish, invented or real. Chileans are indirect: They often mean no when they say yes, and they'll often tell a fib or make something up rather than admit they don't know. Chileans react unfavorably to a North Americans' predilection for directness, and they can become nervous or hostile if they feel like they're being put on the spot.

Chileans strongly value the family unit, and they love kids. Unless a young adult marries or travels outside his/her hometown to study, most leave home at a late age. It is common to see a young adult who is 25 or 27 still at home and without any pressure to leave. Because kids and young adults are coddled by their mothers and maids (especially males), travelers often remark that Chilean young adults seem more immature than their foreign counterparts. Because young adults live at home, you'll see heaps of amorous couples kissing and strolling through parks. Most Chileans marry before 30 and have kids shortly thereafter, the reason why slightly less than half the population is under 25. Divorce was only recently pronounced legal, Chile being the last Latin American country to grant dissolution of marriage.

Etiquette

Appropriate Attire -- Chileans generally dress like North Americans, saving shorts and T-shirts for weekends or for wearing in casual, outdoorsy oriented towns like Pucón or while at the beach. Still, if you're looking to fit in, skip the Hawaiian shirt.

Greetings & Personal Customs -- Chileans appreciate formalities, so always greet a Chilean with a "Buenas días" or "Buenas tardes." When two women, or a man and a woman, greet each other in a social setting, they do so with one kiss on the right cheek. Men greet each other with a handshake, or with a quick hug if they are intimate friends or family. The same is true in business, but Chileans understand that some North Americans are uncomfortable with this and will greet you with a handshake if they know you're a gringo. Like most Latin Americans, Chileans require less personal space when talking to another person; it can feel a bit awkward, but try not to step away.

Punctuality is appreciated in business settings, but don't be surprised if your Chilean guest shows up 30 to 45 minutes late for a dinner party. In contrast to North America, the do-it-yourself spirit is not very esteemed in Chile; rather, your ability to hire help to do it for you is what people value. Live-in or daily maids are very common in Chile, meaning as a guest staying with a well-to-do family you are not expected to make your bed or help around the house. When entering a room, you are expected to greet everyone individually or as a group.

Eating & Drinking -- When visiting the home of a Chilean for a party or dinner, don't come empty-handed: flowers or a bottle of wine will suffice.

Additional Business Trips -- When negotiating in business, keep in mind that Chileans like to build a rapport and "connect" with others before steering the conversation to the purpose of your visit. Chileans are very sensitive to criticism, especially public criticism, and a hard sell won't make you any friends. Couch your words with pleasantries and a mood of compromise. Few Chileans will give you a final answer right away, preferring to negotiate and decision-make behind closed doors.