Mainstream tour companies almost all tackle Beijing, Xi'an, Shanghai, Guilin, and the overrated Yangzi River cruise. Here are a few suggestions, most of which are not too far off the main routes, that you can do on your own.
China's huge size limits the number of practical ways to get around the country. While the number of cars in urban areas is exploding, I still try to choose Chinese-style three-wheeler taxis where possible. Private car ownership is still comparatively rare so most people choose long-distance buses when traveling between cities. A very nascent car-rental industry combined with highways in poor condition, substandard driving tests, and still some areas closed to foreigners mean that visitors should seek alternatives to the automobile.
Trains by comparison are cheap, reliable, and the mainstay of the middle class. On the downside, they can be very slow (especially over very long distances or mountainous terrain) and the network is declining as industry seeks greater profits from the burgeoning auto industry.
For travel between provinces, air travel is probably the best choice but bear in mind that local airlines do not have the same service levels as the Asian flag carriers. Fortunately what they lack in comfort they make up for in convenience. A trip from Kunming to the Burmese border, for example, can take up to 4 days via intercity buses but can be cut down to a couple of hours by hopping on a plane.
Tip: The most important advice I can give you is to avoid the Golden Week Holidays (first week of May and first week of Oct) and the Chinese New Year at all costs. All forms of transport are booked solid and the popular destinations quickly become chaotic. Needless to say, the industry makes the most of this opportunity by hiking prices to unbelievable levels.