Visitor Information

The mainland travel industry is, in general, a quagmire of deception, and provides no truly reliable official sources of information either within China or via its overseas operations. The branches of the China National Tourism Administration in foreign countries are called China National Tourist Offices. Nominally nonprofit, they used to be little more than agents for the state-owned China International Travel Service (CITS), but they now offer links to a variety of operators. Don't expect them to be accurate about even the most basic visa or Customs regulations, or to update their websites, which sometimes give conflicting information and can't even get the names of tour operators right.

Hong Kong and Macau have their own tourism agencies, which are vastly more professional. The Hong Kong Tourism Board is a source of endless quantities of free literature, maps, and helpful advice, and its website is comprehensive, accurate, and up-to-date. The Macau Government Tourism Office is the same on a smaller scale.

China National Tourist Office (www.cnto.org)

In the United States -- New York office: 350 Fifth Ave., Suite 6413, Empire State Building, New York, NY 10118 (tel. 212/760-8218; fax 212/760-8809; ny@cnto.gov.cn). California office: 600 W. Broadway, Suite 320, Glendale, CA 91204 (tel. 818/545-7507; fax 818/545-7506; la@cnto.gov.cn).

In Canada -- 480 University Ave., Suite 806, Toronto, ON M5G 1V2 (tel. 416/599-6636; fax 416/599-6382; www.tourismchina-ca.com).

In the U.K. -- 4 Glentworth St., London NW1 5PG (tel. 020/7935-9787; fax 020/7487-5842; london@cnta.gov.cn).

In Australia -- Level 19, 44 Market St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9299-4057; fax 02/9290-1958; sydney@cnta.gov.cn).

Hong Kong Tourism Board (www.discoverhongkong.com)

In the United States -- New York office: 115 E. 54th St., 2nd floor, New York, NY 10022-4512 (tel. 212/421-3382; fax 212/421-8428; nycwwo@hktb.com). California office: 10940 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 2050, Los Angeles, CA 90024-3915 (tel. 310/208-4582; fax 310/208-2398; jeffs@hktb.com).

In Canada -- 3rd floor, 9 Temperance St., Toronto, ON M5H 1Y6 (tel. 416/366-2389; fax 416/366-1098; yyzwwo@hktb.com).

In the U.K. -- 6 Grafton St., London W1S 4EQ (tel. 020/7533-7100; fax 020/7533-7111; lonwwo@hktb.com).

In Australia -- Level 4, Hong Kong House, 80 Druitt St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9283-3083; fax 02/9283-3383; sydwwo@hktb.com).

Macau Government Tourism Office (www.macautourism.gov.mo)

In the United States -- 501 Fifth Ave., Suite 1101, New York. NY10017 (tel. 646/277-0690; fax 646/366-8170; macau@myriadmarketing.com).

In the U.K. -- 11 Blades Court, 121 Deodar Rd., London SW15 2NU (tel. 44/20-8877-4517; fax 44/20-8874-4219; sharon@representationplus.co.uk).

In Australia -- Level 17, Town Hall House, 456 Kent St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 02/9264-1488; fax 02/9267-7717; macau@worldtradetravel.com).

In New Zealand -- Level 5, Ballantyne House, 101 Customs St. E., P.O. Box 3779, Auckland (tel. 09/308-5206; fax 09/308-5207; macau@aviationandtourism.co.nz).

A Pocketful of Miracles

As I've mentioned, travel in China is a different ballgame than travel elsewhere. That's why I always pack a few extra items, for different reasons, to make me feel more at home.

Instant coffee and packet sugar. Every hotel has hot water but I tire of green tea quickly.

Binoculars. China is such a vast country that no way can you see it all -- so every little bit helps.

Playing cards. Incredibly useful on long train journeys. (A few snapshots of home can also provide entertainment.)

Eye mask and earplugs. Sleep is easier to come by if you come well prepared. These items cost little but are worth their weight in gold in China. And if you wear glasses, don't forget a good hard case for storing them -- and bring an extra pair while you're at it.