Side Trips

Kaikoura

The seaside settlement of Kaikoura is located halfway between Christchurch and Picton on the rugged east coast. Waves lap at its toes and huge mountains stretch away from its shoulders. It's a stunning combination that never fails to impress and these days the population of approximately 3,800 never misses a beat in capitalizing on natural attributes. Chief among them is the marine bounty -- several breeds of whales, dolphins, seals, and thousands of sea birds. Once a sleepy hollow that virtually closed down in the winter, Kaikoura is now a thriving little town that is especially energetic and interesting during the tourist season. It was also the first local authority in the world to achieve Green Globe 21 certification, proving the town's commitment to reducing environmental impacts.

Getting There

Traveling on State Highway 1, Kaikoura is an easy 2 1/2-hour drive from Christchurch -- unless you use this opportunity to stop over in the Waipara wine region, in which case you should allow a whole day. It is approximately 2 hours south of Blenheim. You can also go by train and the TranzCoastal (tel. 0800/872-467 in NZ; www.tranzscenic.co.nz) is certainly a lovely trip. As a return day trip from Christchurch, it costs NZ$80 (US$57/£29) for adults and NZ$50 (US$35/£18) for children ages 2 to 14, but remember to check online for cheaper fares. That gives you around 5 1/2 hours to explore Kaikoura or go whale-watching. It departs Christchurch at 7:30am and returns at 7pm. One-way fares are also available. ATSNZ Hanmer Connection (tel. 0800/242-663; www.atsnz.com) provides a shuttle service to Kaikoura via Hanmer Springs on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday; and InterCity (tel. 09/913-6100) and Newmans (tel. 09/913-6200) both pass through the township.

Visitor Information

The Kaikoura i-SITE Visitor Centre is located at the south end of the town's main carpark, Westend (tel. 03/319-5641; www.kaikoura.co.nz or www.naturallykaikoura.co.nz). It has comprehensive displays of all the town's attractions and can organize transport.

Special Events

Do your utmost to be in Kaikoura for the first week of October, when the town hosts Seafest in Takahanga Domain (tel. 0800/473-2337; www.seafest.co.nz), a crazy and delicious celebration of the ocean and its extravaganza of tastes.

Wine on High -- Make sure you don't drive past Kaikoura Winery, 140 St. Hwy. 1 (tel. 03/319-7966; www.kaikourawinery.co.nz), perched high above the ocean on limestone cliffs, to the south of the town. It's worth a stop for some of the most scenic wine tasting you'll ever experience. The ocean views are wonderful and they have a very impressive underground cellar. You're welcome to have a picnic there and they have gourmet food available. It's open daily from 10am until 5:30pm and tours are held on the hour for NZ$10 (US$7.10/£3.60) per person.

Marine Experiences in Kaikoura

Whales and other marine mammals are the primary draw of Kaikoura, but be aware that you'll be fighting for a place with hundreds of others and that it's all weather dependent. Whale Watch Kaikoura (tel. 0800/655-121 in NZ, or 03/319-6767; www.whalewatch.co.nz) gives you a close encounter with the giant sperm whale. Book well ahead for this awesome adventure. It offers four 2 1/2-hour tours daily on two types of vessels. The fare is NZ$130 (US$92/£47) for adults, NZ$60 (US$43/£22) for children ages 3 to 15 (not suitable for kids under 3). You may also spot dolphins, fur seals, and seabirds. If you're prone to seasickness, make sure you take the appropriate medication because even the sight and smell of others being sick around you is enough to upset the sternest gut. This is a slick, well-managed operation and the films and videos first-rate, but I found there was something slightly manic about it all and you spend most of the trip waiting to see a whale's tail from about 30m (100 ft.) away.

Wings Over Whales (tel. 0800/226-629 in NZ, or 03/319-6580; www.whales.co.nz) offers an airborne perspective to whale-watching via a 30-minute flight that costs NZ$150 (US$106/£54) per person. If you're short on time, this is probably the best alternative.

Encounter Kaikoura (tel. 0800/733-365 in NZ, or 03/319-6777; www.encounterkaikoura.co.nz) has tours for watching and/or swimming with Dusky dolphins, the most playful and acrobatic of all the dolphins. The cost is NZ$130 (US$92/£47) for adults, NZ$120 (US$85/£43) for children under 15. Reserve well in advance. I'd also recommend their Albatross Encounter, which gets you up close and personal with the area's astounding seabird population. Make sure you take your camera for this one. It costs NZ$80 (US$57/£29) for adults and NZ$40 (US$28/£14) for children ages 8 to 14. Seal Swim Kaikoura (tel. 0800/732-579 in NZ, or 03/319-6182; www.sealswimkaikoura.co.nz) operates October through May and has seal swims priced from NZ$60 to NZ$80 (US$43-US$57/£22-£29).

Sea Kayak Kaikoura (tel. 0800/452-456 in NZ; www.seakayakkaikoura.co.nz), operates from September 15 to May 10, and provides one of the loveliest ways of getting a feel for the richness of Kaikoura's marine environment. You'll have fur seals diving around your kayak and seabirds diving down from above. This is definitely what I'd be doing if I only had a day in Kaikoura. They offer half-day trips for NZ$65 (US$46/£23) for adults and NZ$50 (US$35/£18) for children 12 and under.

Walking the Walk

The Kaikoura Coast Track, Medina, 1250 Conway Flat Rd., Cheviot (tel. 03/319-2715; www.kaikaouratrack.co.nz), begins almost an hour south of Kaikoura and takes you across a historic sheep station, up into tussock land, down into bush valleys, and along a beach beneath cliffs embedded with 8,000-year-old tree stumps and fossils. It's 3 days in country otherwise inaccessible to you and for NZ$160 (US$113/£58) per person, it's money very well spent. You sleep in farm cottages along the way and home-cooked meals can be provided.

Kaikoura Wilderness Walk (tel. 0800/945-337 in NZ, or 03/319-6966; www.kaikourawilderness.co.nz), is a comfortable 2-day hiking experience over 17km (11 miles) in the Puhi Peaks Nature Reserve, a remote area that is home to rare wildlife. You'll overnight at Shearwater Lodge, which was built in 2004 on a precipitous location that has to be seen to be believed. The 2- to 3-day guided walk, all meals, and accommodations cost from NZ$700 to NZ$1,000 (US$496-US$709/£253-£361) per person. Only available from October through April, this is a more mountainous, wilderness experience than the more farm-based Kaikoura Track. Both are well worth doing.

A Cultural Exchange -- Maurice and Heather Manawatu of Maori Tours Kaikoura (tel. 0800/866-267 in NZ, or 03/319-5567; www.maoritours.co.nz) will send you away with some of your loveliest New Zealand memories. They'll take you on a journey through Kaikoura's rich Maori history to ancient Maori sites, and you'll explore a beautiful stand of native bush, learning about the traditional uses of plants by Maori. Wear sensible walking shoes and take along a sense of humor and a willingness to participate. The 3- to 4-hour tour costs NZ$99 (US$70/£36) for adults and NZ$55 (US$39/£20) for children ages 5 to 15.

Where to Stay

Nikau Lodge, corner of State Highway 1 and Deal Street, Kaikoura (tel. 03/319-6973; www.nikaulodge.com), has six B&B rooms (five with en-suite baths, one with a private bathroom), plus a two-bedroom cottage, with prices ranging from NZ$125 to NZ$225 (US$89-US$160/£45-£81).

All rates include the 12.5% GST and free off-street parking unless otherwise stated.

Where to Dine

New cafes and restaurants are popping up in Kaikoura like mushrooms on a damp day. For the size of the place, there's more than enough to choose from. Hislops Café, 33 Beach Rd. (tel. 03/319-6971), is an excellent cafe. It has an organic focus and the food is always great. Finz of South Bay, South Bay Parade (tel. 03/319-6688), is still seen by locals as the best formal restaurant and although the sea views are great, the decor here always gives me a stomachache. That said, their seafood dishes are excellent. Encounter Kaikoura, West End (tel. 03/319-6777), is my preferred hit for a delicious lunch, or coffee and a snack. They have an excellent menu, fabulous counter food, and a busy, modern environment that teems with people of all nationalities. Craypot Café, Westend (tel. 03/319-6027), is well placed on the main street opposite the carpark and it's a good relaxed spot for lunch. Service can be patchy but I always enjoy their seafood chowder. Pipi's Restaurant, 80 Beach Rd. (tel. 03/319-7160), is at the north end of town providing yummy fresh seafood meals and good steaks in a relaxed interior.