Restaurants

You can make a pig of yourself in a region renowned for its lamb, seafood, produce, and world-class wines. Christchurch has the highest ratio of eateries per capita of any New Zealand city -- though it's not the only city to claim that. You'll get a bunch of options in one spot at Oxford Terrace, known to locals as "The Strip." Lunchtime is the most crowded; after 11pm, it transforms itself into more of a nightclub scene. The best restaurants, though, tend to be tucked away in more low-key places.

Currying Favor -- Indian restaurants have popped up all over Christchurch like pappadums in hot oil. The Raj Mahal, at Manchester and Worcester streets (tel. 03/366-0521), is considered the best of the bunch. A few of the best of the rest are Little India Bistro & Tandoor, Gloucester and New Regent streets (tel. 03/377-7997); Tulsi, Gloucester and Manchester streets (tel. 03/377-8999); Tandoori Palace, 475 Papanui Rd., Merivale (tel. 03/352-9520); and Two Fat Indians, 112 Manchester St. (tel. 03/371-7273). And a very decorative suburban treat is Mantra, 72-74 North Avon Rd., Richmond Village (tel. 03/389-9997), which is my favorite. Go the short distance out of the city center to find it. It's open daily for lunch from 11:30am and from 5pm for evening dining.

Classy Cafe -- If you've stepped out on the trendy retail strip of Victoria Street, make sure you take a side step near the clock tower and veer over to Blax Espresso Bar, corner of Montreal and Victoria streets (tel. 03/366-8982). It's all white and bright, and you need to be in early to snare one of their delectable pain au chocolat, or their fought-over small cakes. Blax is open Monday through Saturday 7:30am to 4pm. And feast your eyes on the huge range of yummy products in their new delicatessen in the same building.

Espresso Hits -- Gasping for a good coffee? Then head for Daily Grind Express, with several city locations -- at 168 Armagh St. (tel. 03/377-4959), and under the Clarendon Building, Oxford Terrace and Worcester Street (tel. 03/377-8836), for a start. Both serve great counter food and fresh juices. C1 Espresso, 150 High St. (tel. 03/366-7170), is more funky and rough around the edges, but it has the best coffee. Vic's Café & Bakehouse, 132 Victoria St. (tel. 03/366-2054), combines good coffee with an award-winning array of freshly baked European breads.

Meals on Wheels -- For Christchurch's most moving dining experience, leap aboard the Tramway Restaurant, in Cathedral Square near the Police Kiosk (tel. 03/366-7511 for reservations). It operates from daily 7:30 to 11pm and does about five circuits of the tramway during your meal. Main courses are priced from around NZ$32 (US$23/£12) and meal packages start at about NZ$80 (US$57/£29) per person for a four-course meal. There are better dining experiences, but this one has novelty value.

Vegetarian Hits -- Head down Colombo Street to find The Lotus Heart, 595 Colombo St. (tel. 03/379-0324), for plenty of vegan and gluten-free options. Just a few doors away is Aiki Japanese Organic Kitchen, 599 Colombo St. (tel. 03/366-1178), which combines 99% health with inventive Asian favorites.

In Fendalton/Merivale

In heartland Merivale (just behind the mall on Aikmans Rd.), you'll find a fistful of swanky eateries rubbing shoulders in a sunny, shared courtyard filled with grassy patches, potted trees, and grape vines. It becomes quite a party on a warm summer's day.

Gourmet Takeaway -- For the best gourmet takeout meals in Christchurch, go to Traiteur of Merivale, at the corner of Papanui and Aikmans roads (tel. 03/355-7750). It has a weekly changing menu with several starters, mains, and desserts, plus pasta and salad options, all well priced.

In Sumner

A trip to Sumner wouldn't be complete without a visit to Coffee Culture Ltd., 28 Mariner St. (tel. 03/326-5900). Desserts and coffee are their specialty. The Cornershop Bistro, 32 Nayland St. (tel. 03/326-6720), is an excellent neighborhood restaurant that's casual and competent, presenting everything from racks of lamb to fresh grouper filets.

Other Palatable Considerations

Caffe Roma, 176 Oxford Terrace (tel. 03/379-3879), is popular for breakfast and lunch. The Metro, Kilmore and Manchester streets, opposite the Town Hall (tel. 03/374-4242), is great for after-show coffee. You'll find a classy little wine bar at Saggio di Vino, on the corner of Victoria Street and Bealey Avenue (tel. 03/379-4006).

Sala Sala, 184 Oxford Terrace (tel. 03/379-6975), is one of the best Japanese restaurants in town. Retour, Cambridge Terrace (tel. 03/365-2888), is a delicious dining experience in a unique band rotunda setting; and for good-value meals in a contemporary setting, go to Oasis, at the corner of Madras and Chester Street East (tel. 03/363-2800).

Berry, Berry Nice -- You get two chances to pick fresh berries and then sit down in smart little on-farm cafes for a meal, or coffee and berry-based treats. Take a drive through the pretty lanes of the Halswell area and find Otahuna Berries Raspberry Café, Rhodes Road, Tai Tapu (tel. 03/329-6687). It's about a 20-minute drive out of town. Head out towards Tai Tapu on the main highway to Akaroa and you'll see it signposted down Rhodes Road on your left. Pig out on the most divine cakes when you get there. Berryfields' Sweethearts Restaurant, 161 Gardiners Rd., Harewood (tel. 03/359-5630), is in the opposite direction, near the airport. It's more of a restaurant experience and attracts a more mature crowd.