Introduction to Christianso

This is where TomKat should have gone for their honeymoon. Even Brooke Shields, trying to present her wedding gift of a blender, wouldn't have found them here in this remote outpost of 100 islanders, much less the paparazzi.

The island is only 500m (1,640 ft.) long and can be explored in about an hour. Should there be too much "excitement" on Christiansø, you can walk over a footbridge to the smaller island of Frederiksø, which is so tranquil that it seems asleep. Christiansø and Frederiksø are the only inhabited islands in the Ertholmene archipelago, the others being set aside as bird sanctuaries.

Both Christiansø and Frederiksø are spring breeding grounds for eider ducks. Not only are cars forbidden on the island, but so are cats and dogs, each viewed as a predator to the rich bird life here, which includes puffins.

This remote place used to be a vital link in Denmark's defense when Christian V established a naval fortress here in the wake of a Swedish invasion in 1658. By the 1850s, when Sweden was no longer viewed as an enemy, the naval forces withdrew and the island went into a long decline, which continues to this day. The naval cottages housing the sailors were taken over by fishermen who still eke out a living here. A few artists, seeking a retreat from the world, have also established little studios here.

Other than the island's beauty, the only major -- and clearly visible -- sight is the Store Tårn (Great Tower) on Christiansø. Constructed in 1684, it measures 25m (82 ft.) in diameter and has a century-old lighthouse that offers the most panoramic view of the island. If you pay DKK4 (70¢/40p), you can scale the stairs to the top -- that is, if anybody is around to let you in; things are very laid back here. An even grander thrill is a walk along the once-fortified stone walls with their cannon-studded batteries.

Lille Tårn (Little Tower) lies on Frederiksø and dates from 1685. It's been turned into a small museum of local artifacts that holds almost no interest at all -- some old cannons, fishing equipment, ironworks, and fishing gear. We suggest you skip it.

Ferryboats depart from the "mainland" of Bornholm one to seven times a day, depending on the season. For ferry schedules from Allinge and Gudhjem, call tel. 56-48-51-76; from Svaneke, tel. 56-49-64-32. Round-trip transit of 60 to 90 minutes costs DKK168 ($29/£17).

If you become enchanted with Christiansø and want to move in, at least for the night, there is one charming accommodation.